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Marking out inlet man to same dims as head which is at 157.6 cfm at 10” depression on port 3. This dev port has no guides, rough fettled finish to shape, no seat work, so std valve throat angles and diameters.

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Difference after flow correction on one inlet man port. The manifold underflowed development port 3 on the head by 157.6 – 141 cfm prior to mods. Now it outflows the head by 166 – 157.6 which is how it should be bearing in mind the ‘swan-neck’ shape is going to generate a significant loss. The duct shape and entry angle to the head have a a major bearing on how well the manifold will perform when actually offered up to the head.

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When a manifold or port goes from from one section (eg round to semi-rectangular) there are always going to be problems with the airstream around the change of shape. The internal form needs to be carefully developed to prevent extreme turbulence. In other words what ‘looks right’ is not always so. There is one aerofoil shape that ‘works’, and one only, anything else will lead to flow loss. In general the internal shape of this manifold, whilst too small at exit section (to about 1” in) is very good.

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Entry section modified. Finish is 80 grit.

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Non-mod man port left on dev port 3, showing loss generated on head compared with fully developed manifold port at right.

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The loss is an inescapable function of the ‘up and over’ shape of the manifold. A loss is a loss whether the engine is n/a or turbo.

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The GC straight 16v manifold (for throttle bodies) bolted straight up to dev port 3, there is a downstream mismatch which looks huge.

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But in fact the loss is only 1 cfm, which is nothing in real terms. This demonstrates (for one thing) how the penalty of a mismatch is so often overstated. In practice a downstream mismatch has to be about 3mm over 1/3 of the port face area to be functionally significant on a port of this size. An upstream mismatch makes no difference at all, provided that the inlet manifold outflows the head (which is usually doesn’t..)
The other thing this demonstrates is how important it is to get line of sight into the port at the right angle.

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The airstream is quite laminar straight down the middle. The string is picked up by the fastest flowing air.

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The airstream doesn’t follow the port roof, it breaks away and heads for the centre/rear of the valve region. Again not how stable the airstream is.

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Flow across the port flow is quite slow, ie: a low flow region, but stable going over the ramp into the short side radius.

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Down the side the flow is similarly quite stable, note how it does not follow the port wall contour but follows the line of ‘least resistance’.

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Not easy to capture on a static shot, but roughly in the centre of the port at the port face there is a vortex region of turbulent air where mixing of air coming from all directions is taking place. The end of the trace is fluttering violently and rotating in the vortex. If it were possible to get rid of the vortex, the manifold loss would be far less. But it’s not.

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Lots of techno babble there to baffle us with but does it actually work

John

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So what car is this for as in the pictures there is some writing saying `pug 205` & `zetec 1800`

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Head is now ready for guides and seat work, fully flowed.

Flow test final spec on in/ex ports 3 (bare port, no guide only):

inlet 160.3 cfm @ 10", (139 standard), now with full spec in manifold 153 cfm
(loss reduced on final port tidy-up by 3 cfm, was 150 on last test).
To put a perpective on that, 152 cfm is easily enough to give 250 bhp 2 liter 16v normally aspirated - so you can imagine that turbocharged even with very low boost - power will be huge.

ex 125.5 cfm @ 10" (116 std)

E/I ratio with inlet man (ignoring guides as they cancel out anyhow) is 125.5/153 = 82% which is fine. (Sierra Cosworth has incredibly restrictive ex ports and gives only 65% tops in full race trim).

The standard inlet man/port ignoring guides again gives about 139 - 12cfm manifold loss = 127 cfm standard port flow, ex std is 116 cfm so std E/I ratio is about 91% which is way too high.

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Also my cams have just arrived with Guy Croft too, hmmmmm.....

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What sort of power are you expecting to get when you've completed this project begbie? sounds like its gonna slow down the rotation of the earth!!

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Guy croft - the guy gives good head (s)

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Oh dearie me.

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sounds like its gonna slow down the rotation of the earth!!

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hahahah.

brilliant ... but thats Superman's job ...



good stuff begbie , hope to hear more.

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Sorry - meant picture comparison of lift/duration of lobes etc..

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If i knew what the grale timing was i would tell you but i dont! The C&B cams are quite obvious from the photo's though

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Looking good. You having 17 valves then Begbie

Any chance you could do a comparison of the C&B cams to standard - or is the difference not that obvious? (few mm etc..)

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sorry, 17 guides, yeah, that's a publicity shot, the 17th guide is an oversize OE one for comparison.

Fiat use 0.6 inlet 0.65 ex so the Integrale timing figures 8/35 in 30/0 ex look very short until you factor in that they actually run at tighter clearances of dunno, 0.4mm in 0.45mm ex. Std lifts on Int (is it the same on Coupe, probably) are 8.6mm in 7.5mm ex.

Duration, for example based on Integrale factory figures only is worked out by, say, 8 + 35 + 180 = 223 crank degrees, standard Full Lift is at:

8 + 35 + 180 = (223/2) - 8 = 103.5 crank deg after tdc deg inlet (so inlet valve opened quite early compared with prod n/a unit)
30 + 0 + 180 = (210/2) - 0 = 105 crank deg before tdc ex (ex opened quite late to extend power stroke compared with n/a unit)

You can add together the C&B figures in the same way. I'll confirm duration with true clearance when I have spoken to Mr Bariani to clarify what he uses for measurement of his cam duration.

How much overlap (lift at tdc) in/ex valves have relative to each other with early open in and late close ex cannot simply be assumed from the book timing data, it may be a lot or very little. It can only be derived by instaltion and measurement. The C&B cams have more duration, more peak lift and will, I am certain, have more lift at tdc too.

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And also taken from the email a document attachment on Cam timing / fitting. Enjoy reading this

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General
Nominal cam lift can be measured by putting cam between revolving centres or on V blocks, and rotating cam with dial gauge on cam profile. Subtract clearance to give true lift in running conditions.
The base circle diameter many competition cams is less than std so thicker shims / top-hat shims or cam tower machining may be needed, though when the valve seats are blueprinted (ie: opened out) the valves go deeper into the head and this takes up some of the clearance - without resorting to massive shims. Shims thinner than 3.25mm must not be used or the cam nose will hit the bucket. Use new cam setting shims! Cam housings should be brush-honed at 180 grit silicon carbide or cleaned with fine Scotchbrite and then Jizer or Gunk or similar & detergent with hot water. New seals should be used. If you’re re-using old cams, polish the journals with fine Scotchbrite. If you are fitting head to a previously run block make sure there is no grit/muck from cleaning the block face in the 6 oil feeds in the block. Seal them off if scraping or rubbing down the block. Dirt in these galleries will go straight into the cam journals and seals on start up, causing scoring and seal damage. Head and block need to be flat in all directions to 3 thou or better. You can survey them with a good quality straight edge and a feeler gauge. After installing cams in their housing bolt the cam pulleys in place. Make sure the back of the pulleys does not foul the cambox or the seal, there is end float on the cams and the castings do vary in length. If the pulley is too close, get it machined on the back. Bolt each cambox to the head with new gasket and shim up close to the final setting. The gasket will settle 2 thou overnight, so when it has settled, slacken the cam box bolts fractionally and retorque before final shimming. You can do cam timing whether the head is shimmed up or not, but if the shims are tight, the cam may be hard to turn.

Never turn a TC cam unless you can see the valves – they may touch and bend. If in doubt remove or slacken off one cam box.

Step 1 – establishing Full Lift
There is a dwell phase around full lift of several degrees on most cams, to hold the valve open at full lift. A reground cam of same lift and duration as a billet cam will have a nose of much reduced volume and flow and a smaller dwell period.
To begin with a protractor and dial gauge (with scale big enough to accommodate cam full lift) is needed to establish the centreline of the full lift position, as this will be the datum from which the cams are timed. The cam does not need to be shimmed accurately up to do this.
To establish full lift turn the cam with dial gauge on the valve to approx visual full lift - then turn cam anti-clockwise till lift reads say, 9mm, or some other fixed point on the cam flank say 0.5mm lower than full lift. Make sure the cam does not rotate of its own accord. Then stick a large diameter protractor (you can get them from stationery shops) to the rim of the cam pulley with Blu-Tack, bolt a sharp-tipped pointer to the head and set the pointer to zero degrees. Then turn the cam the other way – clockwise, thru full lift and back down to the same point on the opposite cam flank and read the degrees. True full lift is halfway between 0 and this reading. Swing the cam to and fro and check that true full lift is exactly in the middle of the dwell phase.
Mark full lift on the rear cam journal relative to the housing, say with 2 scribed or pin-punch marks painted white – this gives you the FL reference point, which is useful if you want to check the cam timing later with the engine built and the belt on.
The same method as determining the centreline of FL is used to determine true tdc on the crank – using a protractor on flywheel, a fixed pointer and a dti on no1 or 4 piston.

Make sure you bolt a tdc pointer rigidly to the block and aimed at the flywheel or front pulley - before you fit the head. Once the head is on you will struggle to find true tdc with accuracy otherwise.

Step 2 - Cam timing – how it’s done
Cams rotate at ½ crank speed. The engine rotates clockwise viewed from the crank front pulley end. TC cams are always set up on No.1 cylinder, with the valves on the overlap phase (inlet opening, exhaust closing) – not the compression stroke, although when no1 is on overlap, no 4 will be on compression (both valves closed).
The cam degree setting at tdc, relative to cam full lift, will be ½ the crank degrees at which you want full lift.
So if you want cam full lift (see below) at 110 crank degrees the inlet cam will need to be set at 55 cam degrees before cam full lift (no 1 lobe) at tdc and the exhaust 55 cam degrees after cam full lift.

In the above 110 deg example –
For the inlet cam turn the pulley anti-clockwise 55 cam degrees from full lift to put it before its full lift posn.
The exhaust cam should be rotated clockwise 55 cam degrees from full lift to put it after its full lift posn.
Mark the tdc posn with a red mark on the cam relative to the white mark on the housing.
The values full lift, timed-in degrees and lift at tdc with the cam shimmed up should always be recorded for dyno reference. You can check and adjust the cam timing on the engine – but only with the belt final fitted and ONLY if you have adjustable camwheels.

Step 3 – Dry-build
With non-standard cams I always recommend dry building and measuring the clearances using modelling clay in the valve reliefs. It's not enough to say 'there's plenty of clearance' - you need to record what it is. This needs to be done by turning the engine over 2 revolutions by hand, with the cam belt fitted, before final bolting the head down. Plasticine is an ideal material, and it helps to spray the valves with silicon rubber lubricant to prevent them picking up the clay.
Note that the valve positions relative to the valves are not symmetrical on pistons 1 & 4 on the early (pre reversed port head) TC. The inlet valve will always be closer to the piston during its cycle than the inlet cam. The more that’s machined off block or head (or if the pistons are run proud of the block face), the less radial clearance you’ll get.
Ensure 80-100 thou” vertical piston-valve clearance (measured diagonally - in the plane of the valve axis), and 60 thou radially – from the valve circumference to the wall of the valve relief. How much additional clearance beyond valve full lift you allow in the vertical plane between valve and piston depends on your confidence in the valve springs. Radial clearance is affected by piston - bore clearances and guide wear.
Some comp cams have as much as 5.5mm lift at tdc (on the overlap) but cams with 3.5 mm or less lift at tdc and can often be fitted without the need for deeper valve reliefs.
BUT - don’t forget that in the first 20 or so deg after tdc on the inlet stroke the inlet valve tries to overtake the piston, so to be on the ‘safe side’ don’t base your estimate of valve relief depth purely on the lift at tdc – the valve does move closer to the relief. It's no good just dropping the valve thru the guide onto the piston at tdc and saying 'OK, I've got 4mm vertical clearance', for one thing it's going to be a lot closer in the true cycle, and for another it doesn't tell you the radial clearance. As many engines bend or break their valves from low radial clearance as any other cause. Generally closest proximity is around 15-18 deg. If you are contemplating swinging the cam timing on the dyno it is imperative that you ‘map’ the valve lift around tdc, eg clearance from piston at 110/108/106/104/102 deg etc.

It's worth mentioning that if you think that the piston valve reliefs (cutouts) might need machining to complete the build, and BEFORE you build the head up, use an old valve stem ground to a sharp point as a punch to put down thru the valve guide to mark the valve centres on the pistons. The pistons must be held in the centre of the bores by packing them with thin card, otherwise the slop between the piston and bore will totally upset the valve relief machining. This can later be used for flycutting the valve reliefs to make them deeper or wider. Also make sure, that when you offer up the head to so this marking-out that the gasket and gasket locating dowels are in place.

Lubrication and running
Oil the cam and cam tower (or box) bearing housings and rear thrust faces – front and back - at the build stage. The biggest cause of cam lobe damage is dry-scuff or low-speed running after start up. Damage can be caused to the cam journals especially at the front end if the oilways in the block or head are contaminated, this will cause scoring to the housing and cam - and may cause even a new cam seal to leak.
Old cams re-used:
Fill the cam boxes with engine oil just before cranking so that the cam lobes are not spun dry. Moly grease is also a good lubricant to smear on the cam lobes but don’t use on deep-drilled or cross-drilled cams or if you are going to leave the engine standing for months – it dries out.
New cams:
You must use a good quality special cam lubricant (most cam manufacturers sell it) and pour it over the cam lobes just prior to cranking and start (cam lube will typically be a zinc dithiophosphate compound)
All cams:
Fill all the oil system accessories, filter, lines, cooler etc and crank up oil pressure on the starter with the plugs out with the cam box covers off and make sure oil is pumping into the valve train before starting the engine. It should prime up in 3 bursts of 7-10 sec cranking and in not more than 20 seconds overall. More than that and it's never going to get oil pressure. If the engine has been standing for a long time (months) you may have to prime the oil pump by removing the filter housing and injecting oil down to the pump.

With new cams it is imperative to run the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 5-7 minutes to allow the cams to bed in - before allowing the engine to return to idle (750-850 rpm). Obviously timing and fuel system have to be very well set statically to permit this without overheating or stalling/flooding the engine.
Remember that the cam boxes on the TC will empty completely if the car is driven up a ramp onto a truck or trailed on the way to a race, so they will start bone-dry and wipe out the cams, whether they are cast iron or steel. Not good. Refill them!

Cam timing figures – what they mean
Typical competition cam example:
Quoted timing 40/80 80/40. These degree figures are crank degrees and mean the following:
Inlet opens 40 crank deg before tdc and closes 80 after bdc
Ex opens 80 crank deg before bdc and closes 40 after tdc
Overlap is sum of 40 + 40 = 80 crank degrees
Duration of both cams is 40 + 80 + 180 = 300 crank deg
Full lift (FL) is at (300/2) – 40 = 110 crank deg.
Thus inlet FL is 110 deg after tdc, ex is full lift 110 deg before tdc.

All cams I know of for the TC are symmetrical (same shape of open and closure flanks) and this maths can be used on any of them.

Common TC timing and full lift posn
131 1600 & 2 liter 5/53 53/5 (114 deg)
105 TC 10/48 53/5 (109/114 deg)
130TC 7/51 51/8 (112/111.5 deg)
Lancia Beta 2 liter 13/45 49/9 (106/110 deg)
Lancia Vx 13/39 37/3 (103/107 deg)
(Incidentally the true durations of the TC cams are longer, these figures are quoted with an industry standard wide running clearance which assumes no flow at very low lifts).

Don't blame cams from a reputable supplier if you cannot get the power you want
The performance (area under the torque curve) of an engine, ignoring mechanical losses, depends how well the whole spec is integrated. The camshaft is just an opening device. Here are some of the main parameters that determine power:
- Exhaust port and manifold length, diameter and manifold configuration (4-1 or 4-2-1)
- Inlet port and manifold length, diameter and rampipe length
- Head airflow inlet and exhaust – encompassing valve size and discharge coefficient, and port shape and size, combustion chamber shrouding
- Cam profile (lift by degrees) and camshaft timing (ie: FL posn)
- Bore and stroke
- Compression ratio
- Ex silencer back pressure

As a general rule you can set FL of inlet and exhaust cams anywhere between 100 and 113 degrees. Inlet and ex FL do not need to be the same. The cam timing will define the torque characteristic and altering it from any stated spec is not necessarily be a bad thing, but dyno development is needed to optimise it.

It is not necessary to run like-for-like inlet and ex cams, indeed with supercharged or turbo engines it’s a bad thing. Blown engines should always have less lift and duration on the ex than inlet. Sometimes you get a superior torque/driveability characteristic from having more lift and duration and lift around tdc on the inlet cam than on the exhaust.

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sounds like its gonna slow down the rotation of the earth!!

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And some more pictures that came today and a small video too

7mm Flex-hone

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And some more pictures that came today and a small video too

7mm Flex-hone

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Begbie,

Sorry, is there a bit of alloy corrosion on the (looking at the picture) left cylinder just over valve featuring a big 3 on it???

Is that acceptable, I thought you're meant to "fill" all corrosion marks like that, and then skim the head (if the terms I used are right, that is...)

V.

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that det damage is very slight, will mill off with a few thou, no need to chase it out and weld

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This is what Guy had to say on it Vas

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Looking good, cant be long until you get it back. I bet you cant wait

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Nope, will be nice to have some of my engine back, then i need to pick my balanced crank up, lightened flywheel, and block from Barbz, then assemble most bits back together, then just need to buy, turbo, external wastegate, 4 stud to 3 stud exhaust adaptor, injectors, find a suitable clutch, decide on ECU (thinking Motec M4 now) Spesso Headgasket and other odds and sods

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This must be some pretty expensive headwork Begbie given the length time and effort that they have put into it!! Hope it gives you more than 10bhp

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Errr... yeah! Guy is a one man band, and as such, has other work which is more important than mine (race engines, such as a lancia 037!) and i also said i wasn't in that much of a rush

As i quoted back on page one from Guy Croft...

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inlet 160.3 cfm @ 10", (139 standard), now with full spec in manifold 153 cfm
(loss reduced on final port tidy-up by 3 cfm, was 150 on last test).
To put a perpective on that, 152 cfm is easily enough to give 250 bhp 2 liter 16v normally aspirated - so you can imagine that turbocharged even with very low boost - power will be huge.

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Beggars, I'll race ya!!

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No no no, i'm not going to use the coupe in races!

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Head has been refaced and has had 8 thou taken off

Pic 1
Pic 2

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Pitty you're going to stick this masterpiece in a smelly, dirty, oily engine bay!
I'd rather had it hanging on my living room wall over the sofa