Got some temporary plates and had my coupé out on the open roads for the first time today. A few noises to investigate, especially prominent was the front left wheel bearing. I’ll get that sorted shortly.

I’ve got 205/45/17 tires, and I noticed some rubbing on hard cornering, what tire pressure should I run?

I run 36 psi in front and 30 psi rear on my 225/45/17s.

I also found the windscreen washer tank was pressing down on the archliner so have packed the fixings with spacers also cable-tied (temporarily) it up to support it.

While replacing the injectors, I couldn’t help noticing the rubber hoses connecting the intake plenum to the runners seem a bit off. It doesn’t look like they’re seated properly.

Is this normal?

You're correct, they need to be properly seated.

Three puddles only!!! Ohhh, the joys of bringing old cars back to life…

Coolant appears to be from the hose of death. Oil is from the sump plug. I had it welded, and it might not have worked too well. The final puddle is from the “rear” main seal, which is about the only thing I didn’t replace during my rebuild. I guess the gear box needs to come out this winter.

Rear seat rattle is prominent, and comes from the retractable pins at the bottom of the seat backs. They are sloppy to the extent that the whole seat back rattles almost constantly when driving. Is there a smart fix for this?

Those pins are retractable? I never knew - I only removed the rear seats (for the umpteenth time) yesterday!

Yeah, you can use a knife or a small screwdriver to work them in, to make the removal process easier

I've always undone the two 13mm bolts on the centre mount

Actually not necessary!

I added some insulation foam to make the seat back sit tightly against the body. The tension eliminated the rattle.

Next up: I need to replace a front wheel bearing. Is there a how-to of best practice for this?

In the how to section there’s a guide

Ideally make sure you have access to a press, as sometimes they won’t come out without one

Cheers Jamie

Yo fellas!

I’ve started to get to know the car a little bit more. And there are some quirks and oddities.

On full throttle the car accelerates strongly and consistently, above 4k rpm. On part throttle and lower rpm, the boost seems kinda random? Sometimes I can feel a surge of power gradually building, but suddenly disappear, other times it feels sluggish until I get on it really hard.

The waste gate opening is very prominent, but it struggles to maintain steady boost after that. I have yet to connect a boost gauge and wide band O2 sensor, but both are in my toolkit

Come to think of it - maybe I get pings? The knock sensors canceling the party?

I also have the provision to connect a laptop and get live readings.

Where would you start?

I have a slightly upgraded turbo and run 98 octane fuel only.

This one https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/enha...rid-turbocharger-chra-cartridge-11-blade

Just used this method today, with large flat-blade

Yo all! My car is LHD. The hydraulic line for the clutch consists of a section of copper pipe and a short flexible hose next to the slave. While restoring my car I couldn’t find the original setup, so I replaced it with a single, long section of flexible hose.

Now I suspect the inner diameter is too small. The pedal is heavy to depress and slow to release, which is consistent with the hose being too restrictive.

I can make a hard line myself, as long as I know the dimensions, and buy a short section of brake hose to go with it.

What size pipe and fittings to use? And where to get a suitable flex line?