Been reading alot about camber bolts lately.
Are they really worth £50?
Are they quick and simple to fit?
Where/who would/could set them up for me?

My car already has:
Upper strut brace
Billies
Eibachs

And is just a fast road car, never tracked and never will be.
So, will I notice any difference?

Thanks, Maurizio.

yes, they are worth it

yes, they are simple to fit, but they are far less easy to set up correctly - you need a camber gauge

Motormech can do it - they have permanent loan of my camber gauge

Yes, you'll notice the difference (how much depends on the camber you set to - most people go for about -1 to -1.5 degrees)

Thanks Nigel, sounds good.

what are the noticeable differences of having camber bolts ?.....

Simply put, you can go round a corner or bend much faster & be more planted than you would expect. Someone will be along & give a more tech' explanation, but that's really all you need to know.

Googled it, but cant really find them for sale?

Who do them anyway, just H&R?

Where can I buy them from?

Flea bay have some for £15.50. Can't do link.... .

Whats the tyre wear situation like with the camber bolts though, along with tramlining or any instability at high speed?

Davie

Depends on your driving style

What!

Brilliant cheers.

Running more camber will always wear the inside of the tyres faster than normal but so long ad you don't go too crazy on your settings, ie, -1.5' is way too much for a road car then you should get a decent amount of mileage from them before the inside shoulder wears.

I done a group buy for some last year!
I will find the link!

£22 delivered from Fleabay

Still very expensive for what they are but considerably cheaper than H-R one at £48.61

Available from Fleabay £22 delivered.

found it!

give these guys a call and i think they may still honour the discount as we purchased so many from them!!

bought mine from Marco on here, about £25 i think - dunno if he still has them....

Well done marco, cheers mate.

Get eibach or H&R bolts - and make sure that they are genuine if you get them from ebay. If they break it's not going to be pleasant.

Europerformance do them

Merged both your threads on the same subject, we don't really need 3 open threads on camber bolts.

the bolts from the GB place are good original ones!

in fact, if there is enough interest i may set another one up and get people turning better!

New Group Buy started for camber bolts!

I'll try and expand a bit more as to why it's better on a bend. When the camber is set at 0 degrees and you load the car up into a corner, the contact patch of the tyre on the road will not be 100% fully on the road, but when you adjust the wheels to a negative camber and you load the car up, you get more contact surface from the tyre on the road. If i had pictures, it would make things so much easier to explain.

That's the one

hope this helps

If anyone is interested in reading up more on this:

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/align.html

Think about it this way - with positive camber when you load up the outside front wheel pushing the car in a corner the tyre deforms as well as the suspension geometry as the shock compresses. This means the outside edge of the tyre takes the brunt of the load, which is why the outside edges of tyres wear faster is you drive a car hard. You want the load to be spread across the whole surface of the tyre to get maximum grip when the wheel is loaded up for cornering.

However when the wheel is not loaded up you end up with a setup that is the opposite in a straight line - the inside edge of the tyre takes most of the load, so if you go to extremes you will get a lot of tramlining, inside edge tyre wear, and in a FWD car running a lot of power it will also compromise how much power you can put down in a straight line, as well as how effectively you can brake in a straight line (bear in mind the coupe is very front heavy when braking.)

I've messed about with camber settings a lot on a coupe, and what you go for depends on the suspension you run. On standard suspension you will get more weight transference and compression when pushing hard running negative camber. This means more grip at the front - and more tail happy behavior as well as less understeer, which is something to be aware of if you are not used to it.

If on stock suspension go for -1.0, if on uprated then -1.3, any more than that on the road is too much IMO.

I've got a set, does anyone know anyone in S.E Essex who could fit them and set up for me?

Elite in rainham.