Someone???Should i change oth rear sensors AND teeth?

Earthing can cause all sorts of problems fullstop.

However, the signal comes in individual twin core wires straight from each wheel. Unless there is a connector, or some sort of other problem messing your pulse, I don't think you'll find an easy solution.
Is the ABS sensor fixed with a certain length of wire and then there's a socket to the loom?
If so, get to the rear sockets, lick them clean, remove rust and whatever else you find and try again...

V.

Yes both rear sensors are connected to the abs harness as they should and they way the come originaly from the factory!I removed and cleaned them but nothing!I just found a tester for wheel speed sensors.Worth trying??

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Waekon-AB...sspagenameZWDVW

So i just got back from Bosch service here in Greece.They also couldn't get live data from the 4 sensors when the car was moving(same was happening with my sykes pickavant code reader).They think there must be a problem somewhere (harness or abs ecu) since Bosch offers this service in there diagnostic software.It is not normally when the car starts moving to through them out of the program.I made an appontment with them for Monday morning to check my car (ecu AND harness) for errors.

So it may turn out it's the ECU then?
When you're testing continuity and signal from the ABS sensors, did you have the socket plugged on the ABS ECU?
(in other words, did you use the soldered cables to test the signal with the ABS working and plugged in, or with socket out?
Worth testing without the socket (although it may mean that you need to use the osciloscope...)

Can you follow the cables from the rear sensors to the ECU?
Maybe would be worth soldering other heavier gauge cables and bypassing the harness and see if you get any better results (unplugging the normal cable to the sensor so that you don't get any side effects)

V.

No i havent tried yet reading the sugnal withiut the socket plugged in.I will do that as soon as i get the racelogic back(on Monday).As for the other thing i have followed the harness from the start to the end and doesnt seem to have any problems.It doesnt even pass near to other radio or gauge cables(all these are on the left and abs harness on the right ehn sitting in the car).

I got the car yesterday from Bosch.They didn't find anything wrong!!!!I also got yesterday the racelogic system back from Racelogic and already connected it again.I tried to read the sensors graph(readings) without the loom connected on the abs ecu and i get strange results.Now the 2 back sensors can be read form racelogic but for the front it only shows readings after 20-30KM/H.I have a friend of mine hear in town who has also racelogic system fitted in coupe 20vt.I will ask him to try only his ecu fro 5 minutes and check if with this one i get the same fault.At his car racelogic works perfectly.Any suggestions?

Mano,

that's OK (I think!) as it is mentioned in the manual that sometimes speed of up to 20-30kph must be reached before the system works. I think it is tunable from the s/w.

Have you tried importing settings from someone else in here running the racelogic on a 20vt?
Have you got the right number of tooth on the s/w?

V.

Right number of tooth were?What does s/w mean?As for the other thing why only the rears to work and the fronts only after 20KM/H??I think something is wrong here!

Vas is referring to the software that comes with the traction control unit. It can also be downloaded from Racelogic. Surely you are already using it to trend the sensor data???
When you open the software, navigate to the 'wheels' tab and you will be presented with options to enter 'wheel diameter' and 'pulses per revolution'. The coupe workshop manual states there are 44 teeth (pulses per revolution).

Can you post a snapshot of your trended data whilst moving at say 40km/h? This might be useful to see...

Thanks for the reply!44 pulses for al wheels?The strange is that only two of them are incorrect!!I will try that and post a snapshot!

not quite a thread ji-hack, but reporting on my setup.

At last I found the time to test (without the injectors connected, just wheels & revs) etc.
At the begining I was getting double the rpm, a bit of playing about the settings sorted it (I think it was configured for an 8cyl before since I bought it s/h...)
Then I put the proper tyre dimension and the 44 teeth that Barney mentions above. All was fine except for the wheel speed reported as quatraple what it actually is, so at 40kph it was showing 120. Me thinks I have to change the teeth to 11

Other than that all wheels are within 1-2revs of each other. The self learn was good fun found each wheel sensor to exact diagonal and front to back position, but easy enough to fix on the spot.

So fingers crossed I'll get the fcking adapter I'm missing and should have it running on Friday.
Mano, check with your laptop and the serial port connection on the diagnostic loom (I hope you got it with your kit!) much easier than trying with the adjuster thingie.

cheers

V.

Even if i put in the program 44teeth and 609mm diammeter for each wheel and transfer these setting to the racelogic ecu nothing changes!So i just ordered in Ebay a remanufactured ABS block just to try it.If it does the same thing what should i do next?Is there a how to guide for changing the abs unit?

Next step: maybe try a used wiring harness outside of the car(not under the seats and through firewall) of course connected to the abs unit and sensors??

A couple of corrections to my report!

First of all, once you update the settings on the traction control, you have to switch off the controller and on again, else the settings dont register!

I can confirm that with 44 teeth all's fine, speed reported is spot on (compared to my GPS) and based on the slightly oversize tyres I'm running 215/45X17.

Mano,

since by unconnecting the ABS controller you get the right signals on the Racelogic, stop thinking of pulling the whole car apart!
It's most likely the ABS controller on top of the brake pump to blame, since you've ordered a remanufactured one, try it on and see what happens.

Another thing, with the ABS socket unplugged, does the Racelogic run ok, speeds reported fine, cuts when spinning etc?

V.

With the ABS socket unplugged it shows normal speed for both rear sensors but no speed for the front ones until 20-25KM/H.No it is not running ok with it unplugged, because of what i wrote before.I will try and see!I pay an extra racelogic system at the end way way i am acting now!

Not registering proper speed until 20kph is NOT a problem, by default it starts counting on 14kph, just change that to 21kph and you're fine.
Fwiw, mine registers and has constant readings from 10-11kph

V.

Hopefully a silly question but are you using the original loom or have you modified it in any way?
Also, have you soldered all connections or used scotch locks?

Hi Barney!I had never touched it before!I Brought the car to bosch service and they also said everything looks fine!!Racelogic says the same for their ecu!!I am very confused and want very much to get it work!!

Seems to me that your ABS works fine and your traction control has been proven ok. This leaves the wiring loom and connections.

Now in my case, I am getting noise on two sensors but the loom has been cut and extended using unshielded cable. I'd bet a big chunk of cash (well a fiver anyway) that this is the problem. I'd hazard a guess that the issue with your system is also related to the wiring. Recommend you also inspect the pins in the connector etc.

You mean the connector of the abs loom?if there was something wouldn't it have thrown a fault code?Or does it have some tolerance?

No no, the connector that goes into the back of the TC unit. Are you certain that you've got the right wires from the ABS cable???

Yes i am certain for that!Red,Green,White,Yellow.The back of TC?When i sent them the unit for check i also sent them the wiring loom.So i guess they checked that too.

Would hope so but they might not have. It's possible they just plug the box into a test rig, though this would exclude the control unit so it is unlikely.

If you're 100% sure about the cabling and connections, could you find somebody with an oscilloscope to help take measurements at various different points? Like direct from each ABS sensor, then again at the ABS connector. Then via your TC loom etc.

Or alternatively, disconnect the ABS plug and sensors and check resistance of all cables. Right from each wheel sensor connector through to your TC connector.

I am pretty sure it is not the TC system because i soldered the cable in another way and the problem remained to the rear sensors!I just bought a wiring loom form countrycruising from a 2000 20vt 6 speed.It is in excellent condition.So let's hope that solves the problem!

I checked resistances on all abs sensors and are the same at all!I unfortunately don't have someone who can check it with oscilloscope.

Must admit that has me beat! What you are saying really does sound like the fault is with the existing ABS wiring or the sensors. But if your ABS system is not flagging up a fault, I'd expect it can see all wheels turning at a similar speed.

Yeap....

if it's not the Bosch ABS ECU I bet a fiver its shielding or dry joints (or however you call the bad soldering you may get if you don't heat up the cables properly for the solder to sip through them and create a decent el. continuity)

V.