I love that interior for no other reason than it's a complete opposite to what we normally get over here!
I remember from several years ago now someone posting a dealer catalogue of options available on the continent. Quilted leather, different alloys, wood effect dash, etc. I'm tempted to get google translate on standby and see what goodies ebay has to offer
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1662630 29/12/202217:4729/12/202217:47
Mags, would you like to do the magic photo trick on your first couple of posts in the Project thread proper?
Best place to put your search for the motor mount (engine mount) is in Parts Wanted
Remember to say what model of coupé you have, or you can put the appropriate avatar in your profile (click on your forum name top right-hand-side/Edit Profile.)
BumbleBee carer
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1662636 29/12/202221:0029/12/202221:00
The bent part in "that" - it looks like the part the airbox bell fits through and I don't recall a kink there - it's an odd place to happen. The car itself looks terrific before storage and I'm wondering what would have caused that to bend.
Is the front bumper in good condition, no sign of damage?
BumbleBee carer
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1662640 30/12/202208:4930/12/202208:49
When you go to select the price - the 20VT version shows as unavailable. I'd recommend looking at the Direnza ones (since they're already UK based/built). If in the EU, then you can order alu radiator from Flexeo - and it's even cheaper than Direnza in my experience: https://motorstore.fr/shop/gb/radiateurs-aluminium/733-commande-decrouy-bernard.html
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663035 18/01/202312:4318/01/202312:43
When I bought the Direnza rad from a uk supplier back in late 2019 I am sure it was labelled as PRC manufacture. The Motorstore pictures whilst upside down, I am sure are the exact same product as Direnza.
Either way if you go alu be extremely careful on the installation, those fins are very delicate...! Don't ask.
E85
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663107 21/01/202322:1821/01/202322:18
Yeah, I know. But the plastic is faded into this yellowish color, and on previous cars I’ve experienced that they get brittle and crumble when that happens.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663238 28/01/202319:0428/01/202319:04
Yeah, I know. But the plastic is faded into this yellowish color, and on previous cars I’ve experienced that they get brittle and crumble when that happens.
Ok, understood....bleach soaking not going to work do you think?
BumbleBee carer
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663239 28/01/202319:3428/01/202319:34
Hydrogen peroxide is possibly the answer. If you take a look on YouTube you should find a few videos of people restoring older electronics by soaking the plastic in a solution
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663247 29/01/202311:5829/01/202311:58
It could be caused by iron staining - too infrequent coolant changes/flushes. I have used Oxalic acid in solution in the past, you don't need much say 1/2 teaspoon in 500ml water and it just disappears the staining. Its cheap and will not damage the plastic in anyway, its worth a try.
E85
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663262 30/01/202313:0430/01/202313:04
According to ePer all 20v inlet cams are the same (46443669) but different from 20vt (46414245) whilst for the exhaust cam the later 20v is the same as 20vt (both are 46443933) but different from the early 20v (46404716)
1996 Portofino 20vt & 2000 Pearl White Plus 2008 Ferrari F430 & 2017 Fiat 124 Spider
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663589 14/02/202310:4714/02/202310:47
I had the parts sand blasted prior to plating. So they were perfectly clean. However, some of them were very rusted, so there is some pitting where the worst rust was. The pitted areas did not come out as shiny, but should still be adequately protected.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1663859 25/02/202319:0225/02/202319:02
Well, another setback. Not a big deal, but still annoying:
I was gonna install the oil drain plug, only to discover that the threads were literally falling apart. Maybe it had some insert already, I didn’t notice anything when I took it out.
What’s the best way forward? Helicoil or the next size bigger?
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1664039 09/03/202307:4009/03/202307:40
I need repair thread too. I think helicoil (V coil etc...) Is best solution because Coupé already have big thread and it is much stronger than aluminium. I'm going to do it next week, remove oil pan drill 18,5mm hole, make thread M20x1,5 and insert coil. And then apply new seal on pan and bolt it back.
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1664062 10/03/202307:2110/03/202307:21
After replacing the cam belt, tightening the belt, rotating the engine over several times, re-checked the tension multiple times, I checked the timing again. It turns out that both cams are ever so slightly late. It makes sense really; the whole assembly settling in and the process of getting the tension right, has to affect timing.
How do I rectify this?
Ideally I would prefer to set the engine at perfect tdc, lock the cam gears, loosen the camshaft from the gear, and turn the camshaft forward until perfectly timed. Ideally I’d have the flywheel locked, too, and a place to put a spanner on the camshaft. Maybe I can use vice grips or fabricate a tool that fits over the end of the camshaft.
The other option would be to set the cams correctly, and turn the engine backwards. I’m not sure how well that’s gonna work. The belt pulling the wrong direction may mess up timing. I guess I could turn the engine beck too much, and then advance it to tdc, but there’s not that much wiggle room at the exhaust cam.
Maybe I should just leave it as it is. The timing is off by approximately the smallest amount I’m able to rotate the crankshaft.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1664063 10/03/202310:3010/03/202310:30
It's important to have tension on the belt from the crank to the exhaust pulley, when that 18mm is loose you can turn the pulley slightly on the keyway which will take up the slack, I think this is the reason why it's timing up incorrectly.
Om my first attempt I got the timing a bit late, after getting some great advice from Joe Countrycruising a was able to time it better. Now it’s just a fraction early (see photo) . I’ll settle for this, since it’s better to be early than late ( as the belt settles in, it’ll make the cams time later.)
I suspect I’m more anal about the details than most.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection
[Re: Mags]
#1664125 15/03/202316:5115/03/202316:51
Honestly, I don't know. The nuts and bolts I sent off to a company that put them in a drum, that can do all at once. The larger bits I had yellow chrome plated at a different company, and they were hung individually. They came out way more yellow. The nuts and bolts are very original looking.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection
[Re: Mags]
#1664163 16/03/202311:5316/03/202311:53
Another small set back: when installing the sump drain plug, the threads literally started falling apart. I suspect there was an old Timesert in there.
I'm considering (drilling) tapping it to M20, any better suggestions?
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1664420 03/04/202311:5103/04/202311:51
from memory, and I may be wrong, I think in order to remove the sump you have to undo the bolts for the oil pick up pipe and then pop the pipe out the fitting is in, as otherwise the baffle plate stops you removing the sump..
Maybe drop Joe @ FCSS a message as he will know for sure how to proceed
Cheers Jamie
She's alive!
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Jamiepm]
#1664424 03/04/202312:4203/04/202312:42
from memory, and I may be wrong, I think in order to remove the sump you have to undo the bolts for the oil pick up pipe and then pop the pipe out the fitting is in, as otherwise the baffle plate stops you removing the sump..
Maybe drop Joe @ FCSS a message as he will know for sure how to proceed
Cheers Jamie
Yes two ways to drop the sump, one is removing the pickup strainer, 2x 6mm that hold the pipe to the pump and a 3rd bolt holding it to the mains cap on number 3, drop that off and you might be able to wiggle the sump past the subframe. The other method is lowering the subframe down at the front, for this you might need to remove the o/s drive shaft and the alloy support bracket, either way it's a pig of as job on axle stands.
The square holes have white clips that push into them for self tapping screws to go into. The 2 lower clip things on the right slot into the slot on the brake hose to secure it where it passes through a hole - possibly in the strut? Not sure about the upper thing on the right.
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1665406 23/05/202306:5023/05/202306:50
The clip in the top right screws to to body using the square hole and the u shape section is where the ABS wire clips on. I think the rubber grommet is for the wires to the brake pads but the wires have probably been cut off many years ago.
lost in space
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1665579 03/06/202321:2003/06/202321:20
I'm unsure about the O'ring without checking but Steve sells these at Alternative Autos, it needs to be the right material otherwise the gearbox oil destroys the rubber.
Is it possible to remove and replace just the lower (black) part of the rear bumper? Mine has melted around the exhaust tip.
Unfortunately not, the black valance is all part of the bumper so it can't be replaced but it can be repaired or at least trimmed to suit if it's not melted too bad.
Right hand screws them in on both sides, the wind back action for R/H and L/H are not handed like some other cars and if you need to wind the piston out operate the hand brake arm and it will screw them out.
I thought the rear pistons needed to be unscrewed, but as Joe says you can operate the handbrake mechanism to "pump" the pistons out.
But in my experience it's almost impossible to remove the internal handbrake mechanism from inside the piston once removed, some very specialised narrow circlip pliers are need. If your pistons are OK and if the seal at the rear (around the shaft that pushes onto the piston from behind) is not leaking, then just remove them and the seals before sending them off, but TBH it's a lot less hassle just to buy some new (reconditioned) exchange calipers, making sure to get the exact design you want (if that is important to you) and then get them painted if you want another colour.
1996 Portofino 20vt & 2000 Pearl White Plus 2008 Ferrari F430 & 2017 Fiat 124 Spider
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668191 16/10/202314:3416/10/202314:34
Stupidly enough, I’ve managed to misplace the bolts for the front struts. They appear to be M12x70mm. Does anyone know the exact specs, or a good place to source replacements?
I’d like to replace the nuts for the tie rods, and lower ball joint pinch bolts. Maybe replace them as well…
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668370 25/10/202312:4825/10/202312:48
Back to the rear brakes. I’ve popped the pistons and installed new seals. But I can’t get the new pistons more than half way in, before they start spinning without moving.
The handbrake level is attached to a screw, that screws into the piston. But the threaded insert in the piston rotates freely. So when the friction of the screwing action reaches a certain level, the insert in the piston starts spinning, and consequently no further movement.
Help! I can’t imagine how to get the piston all the way in…
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668401 26/10/202321:1726/10/202321:17
All right, I ordered a special tool for the brakes, so I’ve put that off for now.
So I’ve moved on to engine bay assembly. First I hooked the turbo up. What would be the next natural step? Is there a preferred way of assembly from here?
Last edited by Mags; 08/11/202320:59. Reason: Photo
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668627 09/11/202319:4209/11/202319:42
Agree with Jamie - just to add, I found it useful adding a sheet of 3 or 4mm plywood behind the radiator fins upon assembly, fitting the fans then gently pulling the plywood out and screwing the fans on. Removes all risk of nicking the radiator with the fan frame especially if you are using the replacement Direnza type alu rad
E85
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668637 10/11/202320:5310/11/202320:53
Give it a go, it might be. There have been times when I needed to remove the fans for better access to the manifold and heat shield but not need to remove the radiator, I forget. Either way what I describe does help reassembly if you need to replace seperately.
E85
Re: Green barn find resurrection
[Re: Mags]
#1668746 18/11/202315:3018/11/202315:30
If it's a matter of dimensions, presumably you've tried this (if your model provides this function)
Open the Photos app on your iPhone and the picture that you want to resize. Tap Edit in the top right corner of the screen. ... A new menu will open up, with a variety of editing tools. ... Tap the gray square icon in the top right part of the screen. ... You're now in the dimension editing menu.
If it's file size you want to reduce, try emailing the photo to yourself from your iPhone, and after hitting "Send" you should get a dialogue box:- choose the file size from the options within.
Otherwise on a Macbook, open the photo in Preview and you can alter the file size under Tools/Adjust size
BumbleBee carer
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668843 23/11/202320:3623/11/202320:36
I just realized that I've replaced my brake master cylinder (just for preventive maintenance) with a new, 22.2mm one, and thrown the old one away. I didn't know it was supposed to be a bigger bore. Now what? I guess the bigger one has to go with the Brembos?
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668875 28/11/202309:1328/11/202309:13
The brake assist unit and master are different to the RHD models, LHD are way easier to work on as both units are in the engine bay and the master is from memory the same size as the 16v models so the 22mm where as the Bosch RHD is 23.8, short and stubby.
I’m about to prepare the radiator shroud. There are some flappy tin work on it, and some rubber flaps to rivet on, I think. At least I have a bag of rubber pieces…. Does anyone have a picture of how it all goes together?
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668975 06/12/202313:4106/12/202313:41
I’m about to prepare the radiator shroud. There are some flappy tin work on it, and some rubber flaps to rivet on, I think. At least I have a bag of rubber pieces…. Does anyone have a picture of how it all goes together?
Perhaps these photos will help give you a guide - forgive my first attempts at peening rivets...
BumbleBee carer
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1668979 06/12/202323:1606/12/202323:16
Finally got the bolts on, but now I can’t get the belt back on. Is it possible to reach the tensioner with the engine in place?
You'll need to make a special tool to reach the 8mm bolt in the centre of the pulley, mine is a cut down 8mm allen tool 10mm long welded to a flat bar which is perfect to slide down the side of the a/c compressor, slacked off the 6mm adjuster so you can refit the belt and then tension and lock off the 8mm.
Got the tool made. On the first attempt my tool broke, so I had to add som welds for strength. Finally I got the tensioner loose and the belt installed.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1669083 14/12/202311:2214/12/202311:22
The black one in the center is from one of the front struts and holds the brake lines / ABS sensor cable in place. The black one on the right attaches under the car to the gearbox to cover the bottom of the flywheel.
lost in space
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1669201 26/12/202311:2226/12/202311:22
Not sure but the one in the bottom left looks like it either holds the horns in place or is next to the power steering fluid container and bolts to the chassis.
lost in space
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1669202 26/12/202311:2326/12/202311:23
My method is using isopropanol to remove all the sticky mess, wipe with panel wipes and a couple of coats of satin black rattle can to give it that OE soft touch look.
Well, I got an envelope in the mail today, supposedly containing a bracket. But it was empty! Maybe customs took it, maybe someone stole it, or perhaps it made its way out on its own.
Anyways, I appreciate the effort, and if you ever find one again, I’d be delighted to pay for both of them, including shipping.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1671870 08/05/202418:4008/05/202418:40
Hi Mags, the same thing has happened to me, twice. When i queried the problem of missing metal items in an envelope i found out and still find it quite unbelievable that the gpo can get away with removing the offending metal item, in their eyes, because it can damage the machinery that they use to sort the letters, and then resealing an empty envelope and sending it on it`s way without any explanation. l lost a turbo badge and a key on separate occasions, commiserations for your loss but if you have another sent by post probably a good idea to have it packed in a jiffy bag or a box.
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1672796 06/07/202422:2806/07/202422:28
I’ve been welding in patches to fix rust on my sons K10 micra for the last 4 months, but finally back on the coupe…
I’m about to get on with the final assembly in the engine bay. Basically the pipe work for the induction system. I think I’m able to figure out how it goes together, bar the wiring looms.
Is there a guide to how to route the engine bay wiring? What goes over or under what, and where does it clip in?
I’m not looking for a wiring diagram, just an overview of the placement of the loom, relative to the other components.
1997 20vT Scottish green / sand grey
Re: Green barn find resurrection - Discussion
[Re: Mags]
#1673090 01/08/202415:3801/08/202415:38