Hi all, As I’ve now taken ownership of what was GrahamL’s car, I’m planning to bring the car back to factory fresh condition.
Graham has done a great job in either fixing the nuances of a coupe and/or doing a number of jobs just right (wishbones being one of them :P)
My aim is to not really touch the engine/turbo, other than maintenance, it’s more to improve the standard suspension and brakes, along with with fixing some cosmetic stuff.
So onto the brakes, whilst Graham has recently done brakes and discs all round, they are decidedly average, which is just how they are from factory. So at this stage I’ve bought some PFC pads that I’ll fit at some point before Xmas.
I’ve bought a complete new set of brake lines and flexi hoses from JBT, and have some ATE200 brake fluid ready to go.
I’m going to refurb the calipers all round and paint them red as the silver always looked a bit understated to me.
For the suspension stuff, I’d initially ordered a full Koni set up, but when I found out you needed to butcher existing struts at the front to fit them, I’ve cancelled and bought the OSRAV shock absorbers, and then a set of Eibach springs with a 30mm height reduction.
Albeit these are made to order and I won’t get them until November ish
I’ve ordered a Ultra Racing rear ARB (23mm), again made to order but that should be with me in the next couple of weeks
Finally for suspension I’ve got the subframe bushes and rear arm bearings from FCSS, as I’ll drop the whole rear end and deal with tarting up the arms and get them painted.
For obvious reasons whilst I have all this stuff off the car I’ll check the chassis over and as a minimum I’ll treat all the underside to simply preserve what appears to be a rock solid chassis floor pan.
I have as a belt and braces approach , bought a new oil cooler and pipes from JBT which I’ll fit in the next couple of months….
Onto cosmetics……
I need to refurb the leather seats due to age related wear, so I’ll post pictures in the next few weeks
The Eiffel towers are cruddy bit appear solid so I’ll repaint those, or if they are scabby, I’ll change them out for some new ones
I’ve fitted a special head unit off Amazon for £90, just so I have Bluetooth for hands free calling, but I’ll put some pictures up and tell you a bit more about it
That’s it to start with, I’ll endeavour to post pics/progress and fix anything else I see along the way
I might have an hour tomorrow to fit the new bonnet latch I’ve bought from JBT, if I do I’ll post some pictures afterwards.
I’m still waiting for the Ultra Racing anti roll bar (23mm), which should be here in the next week or so, and then a couple of weeks later the OSRAV shocks are due to arrive.
I’m busy for the next couple of weeks doing some dads DIY at both my kids houses, but then it’s payback when they help me drop the rear end of the car including taking off the calipers all round and start to refurb those as well
Today I’ve been faffing around with replacing the bonnet catch, also I found the cable for the bonnet release somewhat frayed. So a trip to Halfords for a bike cable is needed.
So I’ve degreased the entire underside of the car today including all the wheel arches in readiness to drop the rear subframe in a few weeks time. At present I’ve got the car SORN so it will stay ‘clean’.
I noticed whilst under the car at some point someone has jacked the car up on the floor area, so I’ll try and pull the metalwork back out.
Also bought a new inner cable for the bonnet release, if it’s not raining tomorrow I’ll refit that
Also bought some cable to do the fuel pump wiring mod along with the relay.
Also chasing ultra racing for the new anti roll bar, as it’s been 4 weeks and counting….
Firstly will post a load of pictures later, but had a full day of working on the coupe, and strangely remembered from 20 years ago the sequence of how certain things come off
Anyway the aim of the day was to get the turbo off, and get it checked as it’s a bit smoky at times. What I found was the manifold was cracked on the 5th branch as well as on the collector area. So turbo will be done via a local specialist and the manifold will get repaired at work as we have the skills onsite to do this kind of repair
Depending on what the turbo people say will determine if I modify the unit further as it’s got an Owen Developments logo on it, or if I just get the bearings/o rings done to stop the smoke, as there’s only a small amount of play on it
What I do remember is the poxy 8mm Allen key to loosen the idler pulley to get at the coolant bolt, so after sacrificing the crapiest 8mm Allen key I own it’s quite easy to do.
I also drained the oil as the plan is to fit the aftermarket oil cooler and pipes, however Grahaml must have the strength of a gorilla as the sump bolt took all the effort of 2 of us to shift it, anyway it’s out and oil is drained.
Eiffel towers on the front look a bit crusty but salvageable, so I’ll take the bumper off and treat those along with some other metal areas whilst it’s all exposed
Fitted both sets of led lights this morning to replace the dipped and main beam bulbs
Pretty easy to do, I found it easier to just remove the whole headlamp unit and change the bits over in the warmth of my kitchen
Massively brighter than the halogen bulbs that were in, as you can see from the attached photo
I did plan to put the Osram nightbreakers from the dipped fitment and put them into the driving/fog light units, but they are super fragile and both filaments broke just by removing them
I will buy a new set as I want to get as best I can for night driving
I cleaned a few parts off this morning, but found some of the bits need more time to get rid of all the rust
On the coolant pipe that runs near the alternator, I noticed it was cruddy to start with. After 8 hours of being in the tank it’s cleaned up nicely, however there are now a few pinholes, so I’ll get those welded up at work
Had fun with misaligned manifold holes which meant some unplanned work , but the turbo and manifold are back on
That poxy bolt for the water rail :mad:, as I’ve removed the oil cooler bracket, I found it easier to remove the 3 bolts for the tensioner and then the m6 water rail bolt is super easy to get at
I’ve bought a new gasket for the water rail as a leak there means a whole chunk of work to rectify, and I used some RTV sealant to be sure that it will never leak!
In terms of drivers side wheel arch, I’ve acid etched primered everything that’s been cleaned up. There are a couple of bits such the drivers wing that need filling and painting properly, but I didn’t want surface rust to form overnight .
I’ll try and get paint and stone chip done tomorrow, so I can then fit the new suspension stuff and new brake line
I’ve got the caliper off and all bolts and fittings loose, so during the week I’ll try and do the seal and paint overhaul
Just uploaded a couple of pictures of the new oil cooler pipes that I’ve give a quick coat of paint
As these things seem to eat themselves over time, and the aftermarket cooler and pipes aren’t the cheapest thing to buy, I’ve painted them to preserve them
I’ve painted up some other bits and bobs that I’ll load the photos onto the google drive later
Not done too much today as the weather has been not the best
I’ve put all the air con, belt tensioner and associated gubbins back together
Noticed the shroud/heat shield that protects the silicone return pipe which feeds back into the sump was somewhat rusty, so in the electrolysis bath it’s gone with a few other crusty bits
Also fitted the oil feed pipe onto the turbo, but I had a brain freeze moment as to regards which water pipe and banjo bolt goes to which side of the turbo. So I’ll come back to this next weekend
I’m going to try and strip the brake caliper during the week and see if I can get it all refurbed and painted.
Spent a few hours today finishing off some bodywork and started to put the aftermarket oil cooler and some coolant pipes around the turbo
All being well, I should get on the car tomorrow to be able to at least start the engine and check for leaks before I then start on the Shock absorbers the following weekend
Just left the engine running for 30 minutes to do the obvious check for leaks etc.
So far so good
Just got to stone the drivers side wheel arch area, replace the brake line back to the abs unit, fit the wheel arch liner, fit the new shock and spring, paint and overhaul the caliper, bleed the caliper, put the wheel on…….
Plan for next the next at night is to continue with caliper refurbishment, and then at the weekend I have some surface corrosion on a few places around the underbody that I plan to clean up, apply rust treatment then stone chip the underside of the car
Fit new bearings into the rear trailing arms and then fit them to rear beam(bought the kit from Joe @FCSS, nice quality and pretty easy to install)
Prepped and protected the whole underside of the car, including all wheel arch areas and behind the liners(that should last another 25years
Refurbed and repainted the whole rear beam and arm assemblies , albeit I can’t find the lovely plastic end caps I’ve bought from joe
Installed new bump stops, new Osrav rear shock absorbers (set at 4 clicks having read other people’s experience) and the Eibach uprated springs
Refit the repainted rear disc guards and refitted the rear discs
Tried to fit the ultra racing rear anti roll bar, but the brackets are oversized compared to the 23mm bar, why? Anyway I’ll get some shimmed material to compensate for this tomorrow I hope
I’m planning a day on Tuesday, where I’ll plan to refit brake lines from the rear brake bias, and hopefully sort the anti roll bar out. If time permits I’ll finish the overhaul on the rear calipers
Assuming that goes to plan I’ll then at the weekend put the rear arm back on, along with the petrol tank and exhaust
Cheers Jamie
Google drive has some new pictures to look at for those interested
Got the rear axle assembly all bolted back in along with the fuel tank
Then decided to change the front anti roll bar bushes for some strongflex jobbies
The actual point of changing the original bushes is easy, but you have to drop the whole subframe in order to get at it
Also I fitted new drop links as the rubber bushes were cracking, and that's as you have to release them anyway to get at the bushes it's pretty straightforward
Finally put together the front shock absorber and spring along with the new top mount and bearing assembly
Will try and take a few photos tomorrow, as I wanted to simply get stuff done today
Cheers Jamie
Last edited by Jamiepm; 11/02/202319:14. Reason: Shock absorber job
Been a bit busy over the last 2 weekends with non coupe stuff
However got a few hours in today
So fitted the drivers side suspension strut assembly, and wheel arch liner Tarted the front cross member paintwork up, Refitted the repainted strut brace Painted the rear calipers Done the decal and lacquered the front drivers side brembo caliper A few bits of touch up here and there
I will get photos uploaded tomorrow, and try and do the seal kits for the calipers so I can refit them
Finished off doing both near side wheel arches today, so removed the liners, checked for rust, of which it was only surface. Then upol everything after rust treatment
Also fitted the first brembo caliper and flexi pipe to the drivers side of the car, then whipped off the old suspension on the passenger side and put the shiny new stuff in. Unsurprisingly the shock absorber on the passenger side was totally knackered in that there was no pressure keeping the piston at maximum, so I hope weekend after next I can start to drive it again.
Fitted the 2nd set of dust covers for the rear axle, I must have thrown the others away, anyway it makes for a tidy job
Fitted new seal kits to the rear calipers as the last job, word of warning to anyone planning this job,there is a technique to getting the dust seal back in. Basically smoother the seal and piston in silicone grease and fit the seal over the piston and extend it so it’s proud of the end of the piston. Then you can after some fiddling get the other end of the seal into the groove
I will say the seals were ready, as now the movement has far lest resistance, so a good but fiddly job done
Plan for tomorrow is fit the 4 remaining pieces of brake lines for the abs unit to the the front end
Get the exhaust assembly back together, and try and get the cooling fans and bits around that area bolted back in
Not so many new photos from today, so click the google drive to view
Cheers Jamie
Last edited by Jamiepm; 25/02/202318:37. Reason: Dust covers
So fitted the aux belt guard after taking some advice from Joe
Also fitted a new aux belt, just to be doubly sure of no surprises
Fitted the pu right hand engine mount and put the trims back in place
Fitted the KEMSO fuel pump (I’ll change the fuel filter tomorrow), which requires the same mods as per the uprated Walbro pumps. The fiddliest task is reseating the rubber gasket when putting the assembly back into the tank.
Fitted the turbo heat shield, but will fit the fans tomorrow
Started to remove the brake calipers all round and strut brace as I’m just not happy with the finish, so they’ll get a professional job done on them over the next few days.
As I’ve taken the battery tray out to do the brake lines, I’ve cleaned and painted that as well
Only a couple of photos today, as I’m nearly finished
Set the brake bleeder up,decided to do the clutch first,and then tried at the rears....
After 10 minutes of nothing, I decided to try the fronts,which worked a treat
So decided to crack the pipes near the brake bias valve to make sure fluid was at least getting to that point. Confirmed that fluid was there, so it appears the valve is seized up.
I've been faffing around for an hour, but no success, so I'll try and whip it off tomorrow after work, and see if I can free it up
I did test the brake and clutch pedal, and pedal feels great
Fingers crossed I can get it sorted in the week and then Road test it
Brakes need a rebleed as there's still too much pedal travel, maybe because the pistons weren't fully seated? Anyway it's easy enough to push more fluid through
Albeit only a short drive, but no knocks and bangs and the ride is brilliant
Pulls like train,handling is pretty neutral, albeit it needs the tracking doing
Brakes are still a bit soft, so I’ll bleed them again
The only thing I’ve got to investigate is a knocking at the rear end. It’s coming from both sides, so my immediate suspicion is something to do with the anti roll bar and the brackets I had to pack out, which I know means a few things off to get at it
I’m on holiday early next week, so I won’t get chance until next weekend
Quick walk round video in the google drive for those interested
Brakes pedal feels good now, I took Joe’s advice and bled them with the engine running. Must have been some air around the abs pump
Onto the knocking…….
I checked the bolts holding the anti roll bar, one side had a bit of movement so I nipped it up, I then proceeded to the other side and the bolt head snapped
Anyway I’ll try loosen the fittings so I can pivot the whole anti roll bar and see if I can mole grip out the bit of threaded stud showing
I’ll put a comment in the discussion about bolts needed
After a surprise breakdown (fuse for the fuel pump blew), which I’m presuming is linked to the higher flow fuel pump I’ve fitted
I’ve had a good hours drive, and honestly nothing to note of any significance
Tracking definitely needs doing as at higher speeds the understeer is still there, but at low speeds the turn in is great
Likewise for those interested, the pfc brake pads are a good upgrade over the standard brembo pads. The initial press is a bit lacking, but after a couple of presses and they have a decent amount of bite
Tomorrow will be a trip to the body shop to see when I can get it touched up
Tonight’s drive was short lived, so after buzzing around the country lanes near me, the car suddenly died, just as I was coming onto boost. It cut out quite abruptly, so my immediate thought was something electrical
As I’d faffed around with fuses from earlier in the week, I’d got a few spare ones with me, so I get out of the car , cocksure the fuse had gone and I’d just pop another one in
Anyway it wasn’t the fuse
I popped the bonnet and the negative connection on the battery felt a bit warm, so I thought some kind of short
Then I tried to start it, but it turned over without firing.
The injector light stayed on, so I knew it would not start
When I tried again the ignition just clicked, like when your battery is flat , and I could hear something crackling/buzzing in the drivers footwell, so I turned it off and got the car towed back home
Anyway got the car home, had a nosey around, with nothing obvious
After an hour the car had cooled down and would turn over but not fire
So the code and injector light comes on and goes off, so for me this is correct. I hear the fuel pump prime for a second or two, again I’m sure this is normal
But it won’t fire up
I’ve tried the inertia switch several times
I’m not sure about the 2 relays in the passenger footwell, and the fuel gauge is showing about a 3rd of a tank.
I will to be sure check there’s actually fuel in it tomorrow, and given I put about 50 quids worth of fuel and haven’t done more than a 70 miles I hope it’s not just fuel now for why it won’t start
However I still wonder what was going off with the electrics
Any pearls of wisdom that anyone can think of ?
Ps big thank you to joe for taking messages tonight
Decided to buy the 2 pu bushes that connect the engine mount to the drivers side suspension turret
They take a fair hammering to get the old ones out, but fitting the new pu bushes is a doddle
Considering this should be the last time I touch any of these bolts, I’ve threadlocked them all up including the strut brace bolts
Also the new track rod ends from alternative autos have turned up, weather permitting I’ll fit those at the weekend
Finally the new rear brembo brake pads also turned up today, but as I have another track day at curborough in a few weeks I’ll use what’s in for now and them change them before I make my way to the ring
I can only say these Zestino tyres are night and day difference (in a good way) compared to the standard offering
Also set the negative camber at -1.5 degrees
The challenge right now is adjusting my own threshold for the Trackday at curborough , as already the speed difference in corners is sizeable with zero tyre squeal
NB: Joe hope you and your lad can make it to curborough
So after a day at curborough, the car performed brilliantly.
After trying a few settings for the front shock absorbers, I ended up with a 2 full turns from soft, that seemed to keep the car nice and flat through the tight bends
Can highly recommend the zestino tyres, they are soft but they get rid of any understeer and give a nice predictable drive
Also got the chance to drive Joes coupe whilst there, and compare visco drive vs the quaife diff. Put simply the viscodrive doesn’t compete, but given it’s about a £1000 I’ll wait for now before thinking about buying one.
End of the month will be at the ring, so really looking forward to that, as the corners are far more open, which plays to the coupe’s strengths
Anyway one of my next jobs to do will be to fit the Alfa gta subframe braces
I read Per’s thread about this and thought that’s a great mod to do, so I’ve bought a 2nd hand set off eBay
Instead of welding captive nuts, I think I’m going to use a rivet gun with either M6 or M8 inserts, as some of the undertray fittings are knackered, so I can do both jobs.
Whilst I mount the nut inserts I’m going to try and straighten out the floor where someone prior to grahaml or myself has incorrectly jacked the car up.
Also having looked at Per’s thread, I saw his bottom strut brace, which I think I can improve upon his idea with an aluminium version.
Quick update, took the car to be fleamapped a couple of Fridays ago……
I took some VXR injectors with me and changed them over for Leighton to do his thing. (NB there will a be a OEinjectors for sale thread on the forum shortly).
Anyway I asked for torque over power, and pleased to report peak torque of 300ft lbs with 270 hp as an end result.
Drive ability wise, it simply comes ‘on power’ much sooner in the rev range, making it ultimately a faster car