Back to original question chaps.

The gtec chip was a cheap generic tuning chip which offered a lot of bang for buck. After further testing it was found as all cars are never the same some ran lean,some ran rich and not optimised for a specific setup.

The unichip was as good as the mapper tuning it and judging by people here it is better now then earlier versions( I personally have no experience on the unichip) but does piggyback the original ecu.

Other option is remap the original ecu. Leighton has been doing this for a few years and others are breaking onto the scene. A more tested method over recent times.

Last option,standalone kit( I have no experience and I think for more very bespoke applications)

Think what you need to assess, is your spec and what exactly your after with your car. Then choose your desired option for mapping.

Jonny I didn't think that was bullish but feel free to try to remind me of somthing I haven't said and as Alesix says send me a pm if you wish or start a thread in another section

I was told by someone that's maps high end supercars, race cars etc that if you are going too fit bigger injectors that you should fit a stand alone ecu?

No Dave you clearly said it and I'm sure the various members texts I have got will also remind you as well.
Backbones can be repaired,but I'm not the liar here so I'm not hiding behind pm's.

Back on topic regarding the Unichip before this banal stirring deletes another useful thread.



When you run aftermarket boost control it obviously means the ECU is not controlling boost. Within this remit, the ECU expects to see X boost, therefore if it falls out of this range for a significant period it then flags an upper or lower threshold error. That's it, there is no implication on performance or any other running issues. If I tune the ECU accordingly for an "aftermarket controller" then no light, but as it makes no difference... As I noted in the technical post above, tuning for big boost is no problem.



It is expensive, very expensive. I don't use this though, all my software for all the ECUs I live map e.g. Fiat, BMW, Ford, Vauxhall, Audi, VW, Peugeot, Renault, TVR etc, it is developed in house by me

I would also note that all injector light "errors" are logged on the 20vt and can be read.

Would it also be an idea to offer discounted mapping checks annually to make sure everything's ok as this rich running and injector light issue are becoming common.
Agreed the car could leave and develop a fault but better safe than sorry.

For starters ignore about 30% of the replies, hidden agendas

Phone Flea and Matty and ask their opinion.

Matty,iirc had a 400bhp coupe about 4 years ago and had his coupe for quite a while before going to the dark side. I have dealt with Matty at Wallace Performance several times and they did the work on my coupe to a high standard and charged me less than the going rate, Matty seems to me, like an honest guy and will try and do the best for you and your car. When I was last up there a good couple of years back Im sure they had a 1000bhp racing evo.

Matty dosent come on here much, feel its only right to state the above.

I'm not trying to hide behind anything thats why you see I also said start another thread.
Then you probably didn't see it as you have missed lots of points that I have made in this thread,
So thats enough of the bitching on this thread sorry to the OP for the OT but hope I have answered your initial question.

Johnny if you wish open a thread somewhere else that everyone can see and we can dicuss it there feel free.

It was on the standard ebv when it was mapped.

Not bitching its highlighting a clear misunderstanding for what your recommmending and also a blatant mistruth.
I think it's a bit late to say back on topic as its for all to see now so if you want to raise a pm then feel free.

In that case it is likely to be a significant sensor issue and can result in limp mode instantly in order to protect the engine, so there would be a significant loss of power as the boost is reduced to base, although you would almost certainly notice/see this boost drop. Either way the code would be logged Paul.

No mistruth from what I have been saying it was all facts, I also haven't said anything about getting it back on topic I just appoligised to the OP for it going OT but yet you don't see what is in black and white as you put it

Yes I see the black and white.i also listen when people talk as you did.
Although these discussions aren't always favoured on an open forum I think it's highlighted some issues requiring answers.


Anyway..........


Flea:-
The sensors all work fine,the car didn't go into limp mode ,the loss of power was caused by the excess of fuel higher up the rpm.
As in dropping into the 10's.
No faults are logged by my software.
The black smoke was always apparent on this car followed now by white oil smoke.
The excess fuelling caused bore wash causing crank case compression.
Taking away the fuel stopped the smoking and the oil smoke however the damage internally is unrepairable .

In your opinion Flea what sensor issue would've caused such symptoms?

Please start another thread John if you want to get stuck into that on behalf of Paul, no problem for me. This one is about Unichip

If Paul wishes to get an answer for the questions asked by me above then that's upto him.
The relevance may not be on this thread but as your offering an alternative to the unichip (not relevant to the unichip)maybe answering that on this thread and any others raised by Paul would stand you in favour.

well the coupe i am buying has a blitz boost controller and its this one here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BLITZ-SBC-ID-I...=item3f1ba009d2
and the coupe i am buying was a members car from essex its silver one a t reg with the le leather seat with the red inserts

It is expensive, very expensive. I don't use this though, all my software for all the ECUs I live map e.g. Fiat, BMW, Ford, Vauxhall, Audi, VW, Peugeot, Renault, TVR etc, it is developed in house by me

[/quote]
how long do you take to remap it

whats the full spec of your car, if it is relatively standard i would personally just get the gtech chip and get it on the rolling road after, it's £20 and has worked really well on heaps of cars

i am sure that you may get additional performance from another more specialised chip for your car as has been stated the gtech chip is a generic chip but you have to ask are the other options particularly the unichip really worth the additional expense

another person to speak to would be graham_l as he writes the gtech chips, worth giving him a pm for some info, decent bloke and he will be happy to answer any queries u have

its got fmic a blitz boost controller i think its had something dont from barbz himself

dont really now whats it had done till end 26th as i not getting the car till then

fairly standard then, for me it would either be a gtech chip (generic) £20 or a remote map (or live map if you are down there picking up the car, best option) from flea £200 (fc performance) who will be able to taylor the map for your setup, the expense associate with the unichip just doesn't seem worth it although i have no doubt matty would map the car really well for u although i would doubt if you would get much change from £500 from all accounts

i have no experience of the unichip so cant comment on how well it works or otherwise, but i dont think on your set the extra expensive is worth it

no doug the car is up here it was from essex but the guy that owns it transported it last year from essex and its up here now

might be worth trying the gtech chip and see how happy you are with it and if you arent happy with it then go for one of the more expensive options but obviously there is only so much performance you will get from the car without changing the turbo

I will be changing the turbo at somepoint

I'm afraid try to guys. This is fiatcoupes86 thread, not a thread to continue to argue your differences of opinions chaps. We all no where this usually goes.

All been voiced and hope the op can take what he can from the thread and take if from there.

Any further questions fiatcoupe86?

As said the gtec is a generic map and not always suited to some cars so get all characteristics checked out when installed e.g fuelling etc.

FWIW, my injector light comes on, but only after a few seconds of base boost. No performance change - don't feel a thing

The light doesn't come on after prolonged higher boost though, which I find a bit weird

When the light is on, a small lift of the throttle is enough to make it go out

I have just removed a unichip from my car. I have had my second Coupe for just over a year now. In that time the car ran generally fine however was always very jerky and not very smooth coming off and on boost. This was with original EBV/new EBV and subsequently an Armvall PRV. I had regularly (about onece - twice a week) hunting revs at idle betwen 750-2000rpm), no boost leaks, icv working as expected etc - car otherwise in good health.

I recently have removed the unichip from my Coupe, with helpful instructions from Leighton. The unichip looked like it had been installed by a child with "My first soldering kit"; bare wire showing which hadn't been insulated, random wires just hanging down, wires not tie-wrapped together and the unichip wasn't actually attached to the car. It just seemed to have been wedged above the ECU housing.

I am now running a Flea mapped ECU (Still to get the the rolling road to have fuel trace done!) However I have had no bother at all with hunting revs/jerkiness etc and am very happy with it. Fleas assistance/customer service is superb.

My previous car was a Clio 172 Cup which also had a Unichip fitted to it when I bought the car. Maybe just coincidence but I had bother with the Clio cutting out/hunting revs/ rough running. Eventually got a custom map and the Unichip removed and no issues at all.

The Unichip on my Coupe was dated 2005 and the Clio one was dated 2008. I have no knowledge of what Unichip dealer fitted either of them.

I don't think I even have to say which one I would recommend.

Martin- sounds like the current mods on the car are a bit unknown so would suggest a first stop of getting it on the rollers and see how it performs. Then make a decision on what the next step should be.


As for the rest of the bickering

I have this controller and a live map and it has run sweet for years now. Personally I'd keep it pure with a live map.