He hasn't fitted it yet, still wrestling with the turbo and FMIC!

So you were the tea boy then

Let me know when he does, I'm interested in how he chooses to wire it in.

MMS piccy from Taffy earlier:

That looks very nice!

That looks pretty good

that does look very nice just a shame i'v got a widget otherwise thats where i'd be putting mine .

What don't you put your widget in nismo???

Because it's tight on Nismo.

So how many of you have installed this.
And what are first impressions?

Me and Gunzi have both had problems Mine's forgetting the boost i've set randomly, and it beeps on startup, you can hear the solenoid clicking too. Mine does remember the boost when the engine is stopped and there's no power to it, but it just forgets as you're driving along. I hope to god everyone's isn't like this! Fingers crossed. I've emailed HDI and stopped the GB for now.

So looks like lots of guys has a problems?

2 people have had problems, I'm hoping somebody else can comment once they've installed theirs?

OK then must be some people with positive expiriences?

Has anybody else tried to fit their controller?

I've sent mine back and they've tested it and said it's fine. They sent me two videos one with it working and one mimicking the problem I've had. They've asked me to check my connections. I'm reluctant to get it sent back at my cost now the Pinin has had the same problem.

Pinin's ignition wire was fed into the electric window switch, mine was into the cig lighter (same as my head unit). Neither seem to work, and both seem to not allow the unit to have a memory.

Personally I'm going to get a refund. I've already spent £15 returning it to them and it'd cost me another £15 to get it back, then if I still can't get it to work it'll be another £15 to return it to them again, that's £45 on postage when the unit only cost £90.

Sorry chaps but I'm not happy that the first two units installed don't work correctly. At least not in our Coupes.

Where have you been feeding the permanent live from?
Both my cig and head unit is permanent. Then I was going to take the ignition live from the window switch.
I mIght try and put mine on a power supply today to see what happens, not sure if I can do much about the air side of things.
Just not had any time of late, but possibly this weekend looked like it would go in. See what time I got after fitting the other bits.
Sorry to hear about the first two fitted (we have heard about not working)

As far as I know window switch isnt permanent voltage wire, it gets the voltage after turning the key on.

I am looking at the install manual and did any of you guys tried to connect it exactly like it says:

Red wire to BATTERY + (direct connection to battery)
Blue wire to IGNITION + (that one should be connected to window switch)
Green wire to EARTH - (maybe your earth points are to week)
The best way for me would be to guide two wires directly to battery and connect them on battery and third one to windows switch.
This is how I plan to do it!

To confirm I'd spliced the wiring like this:

HDI Red Wire (Perm live) -> head unit red wire
HDI Black Wire (Earth) -> head unit black wire
HDI Blue Wire (Switched live) -> cig lighter red/yellow wire.

The cig lighter in my car is a switched live wire (it's a yellow/red wire). I've got it hooked up to my head unit, so the head unit switches on and off with the ignition.

With the above configuration the HDI boost controller switches on and off with the ignition, meaning that it's wired into the ignition switch correctly, or else it would be on all the time. You can see this in the video I posted earlier in this thread. Each time the power is cut it automatically turns itself off (which is correct) and loses it's memory (which is not correct).

In the case of the video, you can see I turn the car on to ignition and select low boost. Then I start the car and it's instantly forgotten which setting I've chosen, forcing me to select it again, and making the loud beeping noise until I do.

I disconnected both the solenoid wiring and the boost hose and it still did the above.

Gunzi maybe it is just nothing but maybe it something,
I was looking at your video and noticed that only when you press SEL button on HDI your head units gets power,it is also same when you turn on your car just after pressing the button and beep stops your ALPINE gets power. Maybe you should check that and maybe try to connect it to different power source.
It is just a guess....
might help

hmmmm, I see what you mean, I hand't noticed that before. I was too caught up in the fact it wasn't working.

Could any one wire it straight to the battery and pick a switched live? It shouldn't make any difference whether the boost pipe is connected. The solenoid is only 1 connector to attach. I'd do it but mine is in HK!

Wow, the mine is still in the box, but after the issues here happened, checked it on desk power supply and it was ok. Another thing, maybe just different country version, but my windows, cig lighter and head unit are switched 12V; as proposed Al_Galone, it´s better connect it directly to the battery, at least to see the result, or maybe it´s volage drop issue (losing the memory on start up) similar to the HID flickering.

BTW, where are those clips?

I just hooked it up to a supply. All seems to be ok!
Think it prudent to hook up to the battery with an inline fuse and see how it goes.

The Gixzzmo MS-IBC only has a switched live feed and remembers the settings, probably down to Non Volatile RAM.

Does the HDI one need a permanent lIve feed?

Not entirely sure why it needs memory? As the level is set on a potentiometer. One for low and another for high and switchable between the two.

Response from HDI:

Hi Matthew,

Thanks for your email we are sorry to hear that you have trouble fitting the boost controller but we are sure it is just simple error in connection and will be simply fixed.
Please advice where is the power source is connected ? Many people connect the power from radio line and that is not good
Also it needs to be soldered properly to prevent bad connection.
As many other customers has no problem only the 1 customer has send back the boost controller and tested no problem found. We deliberately created the same problem by connect the B+ and the ignition together just to show u what happened if it is connected wrongly.
Here is some simple method to test your connection.
1. Was the B + power connected to the red wire ? (B+ means battery positive it will remain 12v even when switch is off for some cars the ignition power will remain 12 v for sometimes even after the ignition switch is off.
2. Did u solder the wires? Twisted and tap method is not good as the copper can be oxidized which will not be conducted propertly. IT MUST BESOLDERED !
3. Make sure the earth is also connected properly. Bad earth can also reset the controller as well.
4. If all check and connected as above Try wiggle each wire while the ignition switch is on if the led is flickering that means the bad connection is still persist.
Try that and let us know what u found.
Tech@hybrid-power.com


Weirdly I had no problems with the unit tonight, it remembered my settings fine. I wonder if it's a wiring issue specific to our car's setup? I'm going to have a good look at the wiring and think of alternatives this weekend.

Guide two wires directly to Battery terminals and see what happens.
For testing you can even guide trough window over the hood.
I also think much of problems can be caused by wiring.

...also, not sure for the coupe, but there are cars, where permanent live found under the dash will be cut by the ignition switch only during the starter motor is on, so there are +12V feeds which are not truely permanent.

Yes most of the cars including coupe will cut permanent live during starter motor work,that is why the best thing is to feed it directly from B+

That's seems to be the case. After reading the two posts above I just tried mine. With the cd playing I turned the engine over and for less than a second it does indeed switch off and on.
Something I had never noticed before, although never have the player left on scenario etc
So guess it's down to the permanent live to be taken directly from battery as per instructions.
I was going to do the same as Gunzi, so you have at least highlighted the potentional problem.

So does it have to be this way; ?

HDI Red Wire (Perm live) -> direct to battery
HDI Black Wire (Earth) -> any earth point or direct to a chassis earth point.
HDI Blue Wire (Switched live) -> cig lighter or ignition or somthing like that ??

I'm hoping for those who have issues are able to get them resolved, i'll check this post to see updates regarding refits and if the buy continues.

R00

No black wire on mine

Red-battery
Blue-ignition (cig? or window switch)
Green-earth