well ive wanted a coupe since they first came out and ive decided to bite the bullet and sell my car and buy a coupe.

i now have a few concerns
everyone i talk to is telling me don't buy one they break down all the time, over heat and turbos goes also its £1200 for a cambelt change ect ect

ive had nothing but hondas for the last 10 years and although they are boring cars they are very reliable and ive never had problems with any of them and this is what worries me about the coupe as i have a family and i need a car that is reliable also my fear is that now that ive heard so many horror stories that even if i got a good one i wouldn't be able to enjoy it as i'd always be waiting for it to break
my final concern is that i only have £3000-£3500 to spend and im not sure this will be enough to get a good one


advice please

More reliable than a 200, less so that any honda or toyota.

The story goes.. whatever is well looked after and left unadulterated, shall give you years of hassle free motoring. Obviously you need to find a good example to begin with.

I will give you my own example of purchasing a coop, where I paid a lot more that the market value. It was then inspected by a specialist who said it was a minter with all original Fiat seals in all the right places i.e. in orginal condition. In the years of ownership the only failing component was a fog light switch and one headlight bulb..and thats it.

I dont trash it, and do spend a lot on its upkeep. Coop is not a cheap car to run or maintain, but when looked after will reward you handsomely and reliably.

btw: cam belt changes can be done for around £300-400.

Have a read of this:

Quote:

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Fiat Coupe Buyers Guide

This is the guide from the old forum. It was Hannys excellent work and was invaluable to me when I was seeking a good Coupe.

This guide is intended for use as a base reference source, all potential owners should conduct further checks/inspections for mechanical, electrical, roadworthiness and HPI to confirm actual condition of intended purchase.

Coupe Overview:

The Fiat Coupe, based on the Tipo platform, entered production in 1993. Power came from either a 1995cc 16V (142bhp) or a 1995cc 16V turbo (195bhp) engine (both developed from engines taken from the Lancia range, the latter from the Integrale). In 1996 the 1747cc 16V (130bhp) engine from the Barchetta was transplanted into the Coupe, and then in 1997 both 2 litre units were replaced by the new 5 cylinder 1998cc engines, both with (220bhp) and without (147bhp/154bhp) a turbo.

An all new body was designed in-house by Fiat, although production of the car was given to Pininfarina due to the low volumes. The two door coupe body still allows normal usage of the rear seats and contains many interesting styling touches such as the door handles high in the b-pillar to keep the doors clean, the faired headlights, motorcycle style filling cap, strip of body coloured metal across the dashboard, etc... Maintaining this theme, Fiat introduced a push button starter switch on some later models.

To cope with the performance of the five cylinder turbo engine (220bhp and 310Nm) that variant also comes fitted as standard with a limited slip differential (called Viscodrive) and four pot Brembo brake callipers. In 1998 a 20v turbo Limited Edition/Plus models saw the introduction of a six speed as well as a body kit and various details. In 1999 the six speed box became standard on the turbocharged model.

Production ceased in 2000.

Models available:

2.0 ltr 4 cylinder 16 valve non turbo
2.0 ltr 4 cylinder 16 valve turbo
2.0 ltr 5 cylinder 20 valve non turbo
2.0 ltr 5 cylinder 20 valve turbo
2.0 ltr 5 cylinder 20 valve turbo Limited Edition (LE)
2.O ltr 5 cylinder 20 valve turbo Plus
2.0 ltr 5 cylinder 20 valve (2000)

Technical Specification:

Driveline transverse engine at front with front wheel drive
Engines 1995cc (84x90mm) 4 cylinder in-line dohc 16V turbo with 195bhp @ 5,500rpm
1747cc (82x82.7mm) 4 cylinder in-line dohc 16V with 130bhp @ 6,300rpm
1995cc (84x90mm) 4 cylinder in-line dohc 16V with 142bhp @ 6,000rpm
1998cc (82x75.65mm) 5 cylinder in-line dohc 20V with 147bhp A revised 1998cc 5 cylinder in-line dohc 20v with 154bhp
1998cc (82x75.65mm) 5 cylinder in-line dohc 20V turbo with 220bhp @ 5,750rpm

Suspension front: MacPherson strut with telescopic dampers and coil springs plus anti-roll bar.
Suspension rear: independent with telescopic dampers and coil springs plus anti-roll bar.
wheelbase: 2540mm.
track (front/rear): 1483mm/1468mm (front: 1491mm on 20V turbo)
Brakes front: discs, ventilated, diameter 284mm (305mm on 20V turbo).
rear: discs, diameter 240mm
handbrake operating on the rear via a cable
Gearbox: 5 or 6 speed manual
Steering: Rack and Pinion with power assistance
Kerb weight original 1995cc 16V: 1250kg
1997 20V turbo: 1310kg ; distribution front/rear : 67.2%/32.8%
1997 1.8 16v: 1180kg

Performance:

...model.........max speed..........0-60mph
2.0 16V.........124 mph.............9.5 sec
2.0 16Vturbo....140 mph.............6.8 sec
2.0 20V.........132 mph.............8.9 sec
2.0 20v.........135 mph.............8.4 sec (revised model)
2.0 20V turbo...155 mph.............6.5 sec

Colours available:

Fiat Coupe UK colours
Key:
Paint Code - Name as appears on bonnet plate - Common english name

16v/16vTurbo 94-96
Cloth seats
Optional Black leather

168 – Rosso Speed - Speed Red
180 – Rosso Winner met - Dark Red metallic
258 – Giallo Ginestra - Broom Yellow
370 – Verde Chamonix met - Chamonix Green metallic
421 – Blu Blitz mica - Blitz Blue metallic
632 – Black mica - Black metallic
647 – Grigio Steel met - Steel Grey metallic
820 – Black Ink met - Ink Black metallic

20v/20v Turbo 96-08/99
Updated cloth seats
Optional Black or Tan leather(Tan availability body colour dependant)

168 – Rosso Corsa - Speed Red
180 – Rosso Winner met - Dark Red metallic
258 – Giallo Ginestra - Broom Yellow
388 – Verde Scozia met - Scots Green metallic
462 – Blu Sprint - Sprint Blue *Turbo only
466 – Azzurro Portofino met - Portofino Blue metallic
647 – Grigio Steel met - Steel Grey metallic
820 – Black Ink met - Ink Black metallic

20v/20v Turbo 08/99 on inc. Plus
Updated cloth seats with Turbo logo on Turbo cars
Optional black or tan leather(Tan availability body colour dependant) or black leather Recaros.
Black Recaros with red stitching standard on plus only

108 – Light Red met - Speed Red metallic
168 – Rosso Corsa - Racing Red
258 – Giallo Ginestra - Broom Yellow
361 – Verde Energy met - Energy Green metallic
462 – Blu Sprint - Sprint Blue
671 – Grigio Moon met - Moon Grey metallic
810 – Blu Electrico met - Electric Blue metallic
820 – Black Ink met - Ink Black metallic

LE 98-99
Black/Red leather Recaros

168 – Rosso Corsa - Speed Red
601 – Nero met - Black metallic
606 – Grigio Vinci met - Vinci Grey metallic
635 – Grigio Crono met - Crono Grey metallic
647 – Grigio Steel met - Steel Grey metallic

Note:
168 available with 2 suffix codes.
168/A – Rosso Corsa
168/F – Rosso Speed


Buyers Guide:

Intro

I have found that prices can be misleading with regards to purchasing a good condition/well maintained Fiat Coupe, should you buy unwisely then you could pay a considerable amount correcting it. The Fiat Coupe is a true enthusiast car, it needs to be well maintained in order to keep it in premium conditions both mechanically and cosmetically, if left to its own devices and the previous owner has relied on servicing to keep it in good working order then you may find that this car may cost you more than the initial price tag. Currently a number of price guides have put the Coupe value low – main cause is the lack of knowledge on the various models and the cross confusion of one models weak points with another. I would think it wise to use the guides as they suggest –‘ a base guide’ to pricing.

The following information should be of help to identify key areas for attention when looking at purchasing a Fiat Coupe, for more detailed history/advise please post question on the forum in the relevant section.

Key points to check are:

Keys/Alarm:

The Fiat Coupe uses a key code system linked to the ECU, it comes with three keys: Silver – main user key, Blue – Service/Spare key and the all important Red Key which carries the master codes for the ECU code units (except late 95, early 96 16 valves and 16 valve Turbos). The Red master key is used to reprogram any additional keys or any code loss. Fiat used to charge £1000+ for a new set of keys, locks, code box and replacement ECU should you loose your red key, silver or blue keys can be reprogrammed by the red key.

Beware that there has been a few incidents where the red key has been sold with a second hand Coupe only to find out that it is a replacement and does not hold the all important chip.

The Fiat Coupes came with first the scorpion alarm and later the meta alarm, these are controlled with a key fob, to check if the alarm is working lock Coupe with the fob give a couple of minutes to arm then unlock one of the doors with a key – the alarm should go off if operating correctly.

Servicing:

Some people wish to see a full Fiat service history (FFSH), but due to a poor technical awareness of the Fiat Coupe it has been found that it may not mean that the mechanicals are as they should be. Service intervals are every 12000 miles or 1 year, which ever comes first for the 20vt, service intervals on the 16v and 16v turbo are every 9k or 1 year.

There are a growing amount of specialists who are used by the majority of the owners on this forum (see maintenance section) the knowledge and quality of service far exceeds that of ‘other’ service records.

Regular oil + filter change (every 12000 or 1yr)
Type of oil used – (good tip to see if current owner knows is to ask how much oil does the engine use (average is 1 ltr per 1000 miles) and to show you what oil they use)
Cam belt – 72000 miles or 6 years (a few owners have done this at 5 year point) the 16v engines have had a problem previously with cam belts. Fiat cost = £1200, specialist cost = £399 - £700.

Turbo:

Run the car after the test-drive and leave it on tick over for a good 5 / 10 mins to check if the turbo oil seals bleed (can be common you WILL notice blue smoke) The turbo should come in at about 2.5 - 3 thousand rpm and kick.
Even if the engine has been replaced the turbo may not have!

Brakes:

Brembo one piece four pot. The discs have a history of warping with excessive use. So check for brake shudder when braking from 80 down - if the steering wheel shakes get them to replace the disks!

Exhaust:

The chrome end of the standard Fiat tailpipe is only spot welded on so after a few years can tend to drop off - check for corrosion at the join with the silencer. Standard Fiat exhaust (from the Cat Back) is around £140ish fitted. Supersprint Sports exhaust is around £200 (rear box only). Full cat back exhaust is around £300.

Common exhausts used by the forum members:



Miltek
Super Sprint
Peco
A few custom designed systems



Extras:

The early coupes came standard with cloth and with no aircon, most common standard is leather (which comes in either tan or black colour) and aircon. A few have sunroofs and a few other minor extras.

The LE & Plus models came with Recarro as standard, difference between the two are that the LE had red inserts and the Plus were all black with red stitching. These can be purchased from various second hand parts suppliers but are rare – you can expect to pay between £500 -£800 for both the front and rear seats.


Exhaust Manifold:

20vt's have had a history with these, to date there have been three revisions and but there are quite a few out in the market place with them cracked. A few indications can suggest a problem, first is on initial cold start up you can hear a tappet type ticking sound and secondly you can get discolouration of the heat shield – these are based on severity and location of the crack. To replace you could expect to pay anything up to £450 dependant on whom you take it to.

Suspension:

As the Fiat Coupe is heavily weight distributed on the front the wishbones, track rod ends can wear with in 5 years/50000 miles, when faulty you can expect a very lumpy ride. The can be replace with out too much fuss – call specialist for quotes.

Note: This is only intended as a guide and not an explicit reference and no liability is accepted for any inacuracies – the information posted has no relation to the Fiat Coupe Club UK (FCCUK) or this forum. Future buyers should carry out all possible checks before purchase

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And this:

Quote:

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Below is a list I compiled for myself, taking various info from posts and others experiences, for when I went to purchase my second Coop.

Thank you to all those who contributed to the old forum for this info.

Also see the excellent buyers guide.

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FIAT COUPE BUYERS CHECK LIST


INTRODUCTION

This is a list I put together when buying my first coop and added to substantially when looking for my second. It is based on a 20V Turbo but minus the turbo points should work for the 20V NA too. For Plus and LE models check against the buyers guide that they are true and not just dressed 20VTs

It is not an exhaustive list but will always sort out the good from bad cars and help you identify is you have to spend money on the car you are looking at. As with all purchase if it does not feel right then walk away. There are still plenty of good examples around so no real need to compromise too much.

Most of the points are also valid for the 16v models


CHECK LIST

Before you start:

Read and digest the excellent buyers guide available on this forum. This will give you all the details for model types and equipment standards. It will also provide valuable info on service intervals etc. This guide is a compliment to that and to be used as a tick list.

Is it trade of private add. Beware of viewing cars in lay-bys and pub car parks unless you know the seller.

Best place to source a car is the Cars for sale/wanted on this very forum. Autotrader is also very good, I bought mine on eBay BUT only do this if you have a chance to view and test drive the car first, before you bid. Walk away if they will not let you.

If you can get the Number plate you can also check the DVLA records to see it is what it is. However this is only a check to see if the car has been written off and is not up to date. Before committing to buy do an HPI check at the very least.

Arranging to view:

You need to see the car in daylight so do not commit until you have done this. It is the only way to spot re-sprays and other bodywork blemishes.

Seeing the Car:

My advice is NOT to take your wad of cash with you. It is all too easy to fall for the car and buy it without really thinking the minus points through. At least wait overnight and sleep on it.

Also take an impartial friend, a mechanic would be ideal, or ask on the Forum for help when viewing a car, many members (including myself) are more than willing to help out.

Now you are with the car: here is the checklist I used:-

Exterior:

Paint condition and matching – The paint code is on the front underside of the bonnet and on a silver sticker (if this is missing it may indicate new bonnet has been fitted so look for signs of crash damage.
Rear bumper near exhaust – this can melt if the exhaust is incorrectly fitted or the chrome tail pipe protector has fallen off.
Stone chip damage, especially bonnet and front bumper. There will be some but on some cars the bumper seems particularly prone.

Dents:

Dents on doors and most panels can be removed by a specialist but the bonnet cannot and is difficult to fill so factor in a new bonnet if it is badly damaged (£400)
Alloy wheels condition – the wheel nuts will be rusty, except for the locking one. Whilst checking this do ensure that the owner has the key for theses and that it works!
Tyres, look for tread and brand. Budget may mean someone who does not care for the car. They should match on each axle
Fuel filler cap. This will likely have tarnished and the lacquer bubbling. A simple DIY job to remedy.
Front wheel arch liners. Check these are firmly in place
Front under tray. Check in place and not damaged
Front headlights. Check condition of lenses as the plastic coating can start to peel. Not cheap to replace.
Front fog lights. Check for damage to glass

Rust:

Generally the Coupe is very good in this department as the body was galvanised. However there are some areas to check:-
Rear lights
Under bonnet scuttle panel
Sills (rare but stone chip protection may have worn away so leaving this area vulnerable)
Exhaust tailpipe. This rust and the chrome surround falls off.

Interior:

Check condition of all electrics.
Electric windows should go down on one touch. Only the drivers side goes up on one touch.
Electric mirrors (these are also heated).
Headlight adjuster
All dash bulbs and centre console bulbs (they should all light up with the car lights)
Air con and re-circ switch.
To check air con you will need to turn it on and then look under the bonnet and see of the centre of the compressor wheel is spinning (don’t assume the light working means anything!).
Check seats move forward and back and access to rear
Check grab handles in the rear as these can break
Is there a rear ashtray – probably missing!
Check the door central locking button works
Check alarm sensors by sitting in the car and then arming the alarm then flap your hands after 30secs.
How are seats? Check leather ones for cracking and damage
Check rear quarter panels as these are easily damaged when being removed.

In boot:

Is space save spare there? Has it been excessively used?
Check for tool kit.
Look for evidence of rear collision damage under the rear carpet and in the spare wheel tray
Does boot light work
Is there a CD changer

Under bonnet:

Does the car have Aircon – plenty about with switches but no Aircon!
Is the engine bay clean – or in fact too clean!
Check oil levels of engine. This should be done on level ground with warm car having been off for 10mins
Check level of gearbox oil
Check level and condition of coolant
Check Brake fluid (also acts as clutch fluid)
Are the original stickers still about – evidence of front end shunt.

Mechanicals:

Start the car and leave to idle for 10 mins – now check the exhaust for signs of blue smoke _ classic turbo problem symptom (500-600 inc fitting).
The exhaust manifolds are very prone to cracking and are in one of three states:-
About to crack – but you can’t tell when
Cracked – will make ticking noise on start up but will seal as engine warms
Badly cracked. Bad noise and replacement required (About £400)
Check brake disks. The front one do wear and this can be checked by the amount of lip they have in the outer edge.
Check the rear disks for corrosion and pitting
Other check if you have a jack with you:-
Play in rear suspension arm and wheel bearings
Play in front suspension components such as wishbones and track rod arms.

Go for a test drive:

Check braking from 70mp to zero relatively hard. If there are up rated grooved disks fitted there may be some “propeller” noise, which is normal. And vibration or shaking though is likely to be warped disks. Not cheap. The coupe brakes can squeal when warm, a feature!
Check lock to lock steering. If it clonks this could be wishbones, top mounts or steering rack
Does the car pull under braking or acceleration. Again signs of worn suspension components
Boost – Car should pull well form 2500rpms through to 6000
Check all gear for noise and winning – 3rd gear seams to make the most noise in the cars I have had
Check for clutch slippage. This is best done with the car warm and on a dual carriage way. Boot the accelerator when car is at 50mph and in 4th gear. If engine revs rise quickly and then drop back the clutch is on its way out – expensive 400 to 500
The coupe does rattle and squeak but these can be remedied with time and patience
The ride is firm but not harsh and cruising should be relaxed

Paperwork:

Check all receipts and bills carefully
Check when the cam belt was done and if auxiliary belts were changed too.
Check regular servicing and oil changes
Ask the owner if the car uses oil and what oil he tops up with. Bare minimum should be semi synthetic but a good synthetic is better
Check mileage against MOTs (worry if these have not been kept)
Is the car tax still valid , if not factor this into your budget.
When is the next MOT
How many previous owners and ask why seller is selling.
Keys:- One Red (a must, was replaced by code card on late cars) one blue and one very nice silver one.
Check they all work and will start the car
There should be 2 alarm fobs
Are there any receipts of service work undertaken?

Service intervals etc:

20VT service interval is 12,000 or 12 months. Check the book for stamps. Fiat dealers are a mixed bunch and any evidence of a good independent doing the servicing is a very good sign. Check against the recommended garages list or ask on the forum.

It is preferable to have the oil changed at least every 6,ooo miles too.

The Cam belt should be changed before 60,000 miles or every five years whichever is soonest. It is important all the other auxiliary belts are changed at the same time as these can break and interfere with the cam belt.
The coupe is an interference engine and cam belt failure will cause significant and maybe un-repairable damage to an engine.

Check the buyers guide for advice therein.

Miscellaneous:

Genuine Red Key

Apparently "fake" red keys are often just the blue key in a red key casing. To check if a red key is genuine, put the red key in the ignition and turn the ignition on - the CODE light should illuminate, then go out. Leave the key in the ignition, then turn the ignition off then on again. If the CODE light remains lit, the red key is genuine.

Does the owner like the car and des he seam an honest type?
Its it well cleaned, inc door shuts, and are there mats protecting the carpets?
Do you like the colour of the car – yes I am serious as over time this will annoy so don’t just choose because the car is the best example you have seen so far.
Don’t rush into buying a coop. You can always buy a £50 banger until the right car turns up.

Credits

Most of this information has been gleaned from various bits of advice left on the forum by others too numerous to mention. All I did was to pull it together for my own use but thought it may be of use to others when viewing a car. Amendments and additions are welcome. I am on my 2nd Coupe and have loved both of them.

JOhn

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thanks for that hanny i am doing alot of research to make sure that i buy a good one from what ive found so far is that the unreliablity issues people tend to talk about are silly things like electric windows and speedos packing up rather than engines breaking down.

would you say this was a fair comment ?

fastfu,
I was in the same boat as you 3 months back. I joined this forum the same as you to get as much advice as possible.
I viewed 7 Coupes before I got my one. I asked oads of questions before I finally got one from a trusted member on this forum
Was it a good buy? LOL thats the 64,000 dollar question.

Although I`ve had a few niggling faults and a little more expense than I had calculated for the answer is a resounding YES. Put your foot down, feel the power and the woosh of the Turbo puts a smile on your face everytime.
My son wanted me to get a Subaru. Not now he loves the Coupe

Be warned. the car is not cheap to run. You`ll end up joining the Group Buys

Oh and there is a section were Coupe owners are willing to take a look at a Coupe with you. Use them, use their knowledge

Just got to be careful when you buy the car, and then look after it.

I've had mine for over three and a half years and it is the most reliable car I have ever owned. It's just passed another mot first time (only failed once since i've had it - worn front discs) and all i've done is had a full service once a year by a specialist (and doing any work they have recommended needs doing - thankfully very little) and kept an eye on (and topped up ) the oil level so i'm not going OTT either.

I do keep an ear out for strange noises and the like but none of my paranoia has been justified.

That's doing under 10k a year so its probably fair to say the more miles you do the more likely it is to go wrong at some point.

well ive looked at buying a coupe a few times now and theres always been something niggling at the back of my mind thats stopped me buying one, i passed up buying one before and bought an impreza instead but i had pretty much the same thing with that in that i had heard so many horror stories i was constantly waiting for something to go wrong and it ruined the car for me

i think the coupe is a gorgeous and ive sat in a few and love the interior i just wish i could get the Fix It Again Tomorrow thing out of my head

If you have that attitude then you'll always be looking and never buying.
I had the same thoughts and still did for the first 4-5 weeks. It's only after your getting used to the power, handling and the noises that you begin to relax and enjoy the car.
You relax even more after a visit to Powerfiat and you get the thumbs up from Rog

If you're going to paranoid before you even get one, I would suggest that an Italian isn't for you. Perhaps a nice Civic or an Almera would be better?

no thanks, ive had 7 hondas already as it is and also run my own honda prelude owners club

been there done that