Getting hold of the internals is the easy part.
Building these engines is extremely time consuming.
Mainly down to the crankshaft.
Most people use generic shells over the crank mains.
Any experienced builder would always check but on 99% of engines they run a "true" crank.
On the 5 cylinder it doesn't.
Or I am yet to see one that does.
Usually between the 6 caps,the centre 2 are different and sometimes more.
The last crank I fitted had 3 different size shells so made installation very time consuming.
On average it takes me 3 days to construct even with all the parts and tooling to hand with engine on the stand.
Maybe back in the day the tooling wore whilst cutting these to size making tolerances very difficult to perfect for future builders.
One other crucial thing to check for is cap float.
How these were measured is beyond me but I scrap blocks where the caps are a loose fit on the mains.
Big ends are straightforward but not always the same size.
82.5 bore gives much greater flexibility when ordering aftermarket components.
But above all make sure you clean,clean,clean and once done clean again.
Seal the engine when not working on it as dust will be in any environment.
And never assume because its new that its right.check and check again,and if your not happy then don't continue until you are.
Unless its perfect then don't turn the key.
20vt runs an extremely fine tolerance between top and bottom limit so any swarf will reduce your 3k engine back to the raw materials in a matter of hours.
Down the years i have seen many attempts at building forged angines with catastrophic consiquesces so Ask as many questions as you can,regardless of how trivial they may seem.
Forged engines aren't unreliable but are weak if not done right.
Good luck
