Having put aside the coupé paranoia from which I have been afflicted for some time, I decided to increase the power a little.
I had a good opportunity in my hands and purchased the gtr2560 model (n. 420124 on the site) from turboparts.
I have many of the necessary support modifications installed for some time now.
Which includes: FMIC. SIP. K&N cone filter. 70mm downpipe. 200 cell magnaflow catalyst. Central straight Ragazzon. Terminal Ragazzon. Forge fmdvspltr drain valve set to recirculation. Manual Boost Controller. GTEC 2 chip. I only use Petrol 98+ additive for complete cleaning of the entire injection system. Turbo boost pressure gauge installed.
The only modification not yet carried out is a 255l Valbro pump, which I will install later if necessary.
I don't think I have any fears with these combinations and I won't push more than 1.2/1.3 bar.
I would like to ask you some questions,
1. I have always thought that a gasket is needed between the turbo and manifolds, I currently have one now. but when I install the new turbo I want to be sure if I put one in, right? Even in the turbokit purchased there is one but, I read in the forum that it should not be used.
2. The new turbo is not aligned with the oil/water pipes and the cold side is also not aligned, I will have to loosen the bolts holding the core and rotate it, would you know how many nm to apply to tighten it?
3. I have been trying to buy a modern V-clamp to fix the Downpipe to the turbo for years, I have already bought the wrong size twice, could you tell me which one to buy?
any advice on installation/various settings is welcome.
If you are relying on the GTEC2 chip with that turbo I would install a Wideband O2 gauge to keep an eye on open loop fuelling. They are not expensive, easy to install with a collar clamp and the sensor can be mounted vertical on the straight tube before the cat. Make sure to wire in a relay switched direct battery feed for the power supply so the sensor heater gets enough power.
Thanks Clanger, yes an AFR tool is also on my to do list.
Thanks Jamie, I will no longer be installing gaskets between the turbo and manifolds.
well, I'm still waiting for some advice regarding the second and third questions.
I forgot, I also received the oil loading/draining adapters in the kit, these must be screwed onto the heart of the turbo, do you recommend simply using Teflon tape?
Greetings. That's what I meant by using Teflon tape. In these two fittings, both for the oil, I also received a new steel pipe to connect the turbo to the engine,
now the doubt arises in my mind, perhaps this brass fitting goes into the engine block and the banjo on the turbo?
I'll have to check Joe, in case it should fit, do you recommend installing the new banjo side hose to the turbo with two new copper washers, and the small fitting with some Teflon to the engine block?
Greetings. Joe nothing to do, the original banjo won't fit, he will have to use the new tube and the new fitting. How do you recommend screwing it onto the turbo without or with Teflon?
Can you tell me the size of the copper gaskets on the banjos of the turbo water lines? Are they 20x14x1.3?
Again... with this turbo I definitely won't be able to install the support bracket that holds the turbo attached to the engine, is this a bad thing?
Greetings. Joe nothing to do, the original banjo won't fit, he will have to use the new tube and the new fitting. How do you recommend screwing it onto the turbo without or with Teflon?
Can you tell me the size of the copper gaskets on the banjos of the turbo water lines? Are they 20x14x1.3?
Again... with this turbo I definitely won't be able to install the support bracket that holds the turbo attached to the engine, is this a bad thing?
Thank you
Missing the anchor bracket isn't a bad thing, just make sure the rear exhaust mount is secure the gearbox arm, you don't want any excess movement.
Have you kept the old copper crush washers for coolant and oil?
Greetings I wanted to ask for advice. As mentioned above by Clanger; it would be better to install the instrument with the lambda probe (AEM afr x-series 30-0300) directly from the battery with a relay, I'm not that expert on the subject but what do you think about this, will it do the job? naturally connect it with a wire that generates the impulse by turning the key which in turn will energize the relay which will give direct current from the battery to the instrument.
hi. so, ive got a great low mileage spare engine, i will be looking for it to handle as close to 1000bhp as possible, what does it take for these engines to achieve the BIG numbers CLOSER to that number?
ive got a SPA turbo manfiold with external wastegate, will be ordering PEC rods with arp 2000 hardware or pay the extra for uprated hardware instead that is an option to come with them and 82.5 or 83.5mm WOSSNER Pistons, was going to order the spa high lift cams but not sure about that now... will be getting 30xx or 3582 turbo (t3) will be ordering the full glyco???....engine bearing set probably going to tap a map sensor i to the inlet manifold all the while the engine is out, what injectors would i need? what fuel pump would i need? i have a kemso 340lph (to fit inplace of my walbro 255) and 4 bar fpr with 480cc injectors currently with 350whp and stage 3 hybrid (stock housings) with apexi boost control, so where do i go from there? what ecu is recommended that is a plug n play?? maybe not... with coupes??
cheers carmine, i wont be going for 4wd, not interested in having not alot of drama and not being able to do burnouts, that guys gone to town and damn, them d2 coilovers must cost, my bc br series coilovers cost over a grand
i think most of my mods will be ok except for the map, injectors turbo and paddle clutch just looking at his mods. and having a plus like him, the 6th gear wont be as resrtictive as the 5 so i could really ring it out.
first things first tho, my floor pan has rotted through at the front of the sills and also have a big dent in it thanks to the tyre place jacking it up on that circle piece with the hollow centre that LOOKS like you could jack it up there (located just behind the wishbones) and my turbo is dripping coolant on cold start and after a drive and oil from the centre of the cartridge even tho its all tight, ODDLY ENOUGH NO NO SMOKE WHEN THE CAR GETS OFF COLD START/AFTER 20-30 SECONDS AND NO SMOKE ON BOOST..... and my stock manifold has cracked and beeen rewlded serveral times in its life and looks hideous!.
Carmine, that SPA manifold looks interesting. My replacement brazed manifold has cracked again, no performance loss but it stinks on boost (E85 so smells like a Gin distillery in the cabin) unless at motorway speeds. I will be interested to see how you get on, I don't want to go to a bigger turbo so would need a T2 fitment which I believe they can supply? please keep us posted.
Lloyd, presumably you are going aftermarket standalone ecu, in which case mapping can be a diy job with all the logging facilities a modern ecu has to offer, great learning experience. I've remapped the standard ecu for E85 and learnt so much in the process...
i paid around 250 all in for it straight from there site from the states, its very nice as its cast, seems to be tubular having each runner completely seperate from the others unlike the stock one, its very thick and boy its ALOT heavier than the stock cast manifold, so should last. also has big ports. mmm corn juice, is it just e you can run or are you using flex fuel setup? im not sure the fuel consumption to bhp ratio is really worth running e tho as i heard that it takes alot more and goes alot quicker. would be a nightmare getting fuel, trying to get super unleaded is a pain itself. might take some pics of the other engine when i go to the garage, strip and clean the engine and mock fit the spa manifold, so everyone can see the dimensions of where everything will sit should they want to get one.
oh thats crazy, didnt realise the stock ecu was that capable/flexible. as much as id like to give that a go id balls it up, not good with anything but mechanical stuff tbh and would break something. id like to go standalone as im 70 percent sure im going to get the manifold tapped for a map sensor.
i paid around 250 all in for it straight from there site from the states, its very nice as its cast, seems to be tubular having each runner completely seperate from the others unlike the stock one, its very thick and boy its ALOT heavier than the stock cast manifold, so should last. also has big ports. mmm corn juice, is it just e you can run or are you using flex fuel setup? im not sure the fuel consumption to bhp ratio is really worth running e tho as i heard that it takes alot more and goes alot quicker. would be a nightmare getting fuel, trying to get super unleaded is a pain itself. might take some pics of the other engine when i go to the garage, strip and clean the engine and mock fit the spa manifold, so everyone can see the dimensions of where everything will sit should they want to get one.
oh thats crazy, didnt realise the stock ecu was that capable/flexible. as much as id like to give that a go id balls it up, not good with anything but mechanical stuff tbh and would break something. id like to go standalone as im 70 percent sure im going to get the manifold tapped for a map sensor.
I'm in France and Ethanol is at 78 cents a liter versus 1.80 euro for E5. Need to up the fuel by 28% but its still a no brainer once you factor in the the performance increase once properly mapped. No flex fuel but I can upload a petrol map in seconds if need be. Anyway enough of that thread drift... Good luck with your modding
Hi Lloyd, welcome to the forum, you sound like a busy man, I guess your coop is garaged to be able to undertake all this work or do you have a trusted place who'll take it on?
As for rusted floors it's sadly a feature of these older cars and sloppy jack-placement is a nightmare to avoid
morning pal, cheers, well, its actually my dailey, i got it off a chap in 2021, he said he let the car sit for years as he had plan on doing track days but never bothered, but said he had the cambelt done in November 2020, so the paints rough as hell, and the floor was somewhat rusty, now the rust has gone right through after doing my last oil change, oddly enough the boot area has not suffered the usual issues as is absolutely mint, and to keep it that way i soaked it all in wd40 then dryed it out thoroughly and put 2 layers of primer over it all inside, the outside is also mint with minor surface rust on the tank straps.
my planet sized predicament now is, i booked the car in with joe for july 10th originally (3 hour drive away) to get the cambelt n pump, manifold, oil pump seal, steering belt kit done with new stage 3 hybrid from turbo technics as my current turbo is dripping coolant and oil from the centre of the cartridge on cold start and after a drive.
so i did my oil change 2 weeks ago to find the rusted areas have turned into holes after jacking it up, and my MOT IS IN AUGUST.....
so. yeh, big problems, the garage i go to do pass it with no cat in and the turbo was only dripping a little oil last time and marked it as advisory, so im praying that they ignore it dripping both liquids this time as im now having to spend the money i would of used for the cambelt and turbo etc on the floor getting welded.
the garage that does the mots and work have let me keep the spare low mileage engine with them for zero cost, but thats for a few years in the future when this engine snuffs it, i want to keep thsi one going as long as possible, but i have no clue as to the mileage of the current one as the speedo isnt the OG plus one, also, where the car was a car d, the whole outer skin of my drivers door is all filler, probablyaking the door 1.5CMS if not more..thicker.....its clearly ALL filler aswell as my boot lid being half filler.
yes, as Lloyd said. I also bought it directly from America in the end with shipping to Germany and taxes it cost me around €260. it is available in t2 and t3. I purchased a t2 because last year I purchased a new, slightly larger turbo (300hp) and it is a t2.
The manifolds are really excellent, they fit the head perfectly, the only problem is that these manifolds are designed to be used with an external wastegate, the SPA manifold has a 45° angle if you look at the turbo flange and the cylinder head ports while the original manifold has the turbo flange inclined about 15° outwards, this creates enough space to install an original turbo with integrated wastegate, the problem itself is the wastegate actuator which takes up a lot of space.
other drawbacks are: the assembly of the SPA manifold should be carried out with the support that holds the a/c pump the pump serves the alternator OUTSIDE the engine otherwise you don't have the space to insert the manifold, I managed to install it with this too inside but it was a nightmare, really a matter of 2-3 millimetres. yet another: the SPA manifold also changes the position of the turbo which will move about 2 cm closer to the oil filter, thus also having to modify the curve of the Downpipe. In any case, I believe that the SPA is a good, very robust manifold which I believe can easily withstand many hp and exclude breakages like the original. Two Internet sites were still offering the original manifold, one for 750 pounds and another for 1500 Euros, this made me think that perhaps in a couple of years I would have to repair them by welding them, so I opted for SPA.
So far I have been able to install the turbo by making a custom bracket to hold the actuator. I strongly advise anyone who wants to install the SPA manifold with a normal turbo to carefully examine the situation, a solution would be to install an adapter with a 15° inclination between the manifold and the turbo. This consists of 2 flanges t2 to t2 (impossible to find) or t2 to t3 (very popular) with a piece of inclined tube welded in the center, this will give you enough space between the block and the turbo but will lower the position of the turbo by about 10cm.
getting a new stage 3 hybrid from turbo technics for the stock manifold setup and replacement stock manifold this year and using the spa manifold for the big power spare engine build, my current setup is good for 420bhp but the rods and pistons wont take that much and i dont know the mileage of my current engine. wish i could upload pics but wont let me
my wastegate will be out the bonnet probably, unless i get a block off plate and use internal gated turbo. but given i want the 3077??...or 3070..? or the 3582 im not sure thats an option. can we use twin scroll turbos on our single scroll manifolds?
Greetings. I forgot to clarify that the photos of the manifold are between a SPA of course it is between one (not original fiat) but with the same shape as the original. This is the manifold that I found on the car when I purchased it, about 2 years ago when I had to carry out some work on the cylinder head (bend valves/service belt which slipped) I noticed that they were broken, no longer having a large budget available at that time due to the cylinder head I made the huge mistake of buying this kind of manifold again (shitty steel) these seemed to be a little better in structure than the ones in the photo above well... about 3000 km of driving and a month ago when I wanted to install my new turbo I realize that this one is broken!!! what I mean to say is that I was also warned at the time by the forum that those manifolds were rubbish but I had no choice, so to speak... so I hope this discussion is a warning to anyone who wants to buy these "steel" manifolds? " Believe in the forum is in the experience of other users who have already had the problem. I hope that the SPA manifolds can be a good alternative to the original which, as we know, I believe Fiat has already overhauled it 3 times in the production time and in the end they will crack anyway, they can be heated efficiently, but not indefinitely.
there would still be these options but... you have to look at the budget, not the cheap ones. and are only on request. This is why I opted for SPA, less cost but more work and modifications.
there would still be these options but... you have to look at the budget, not the cheap ones. and are only on request. This is why I opted for SPA, less cost but more work and modifications.
Update: I managed to install the turbo (I hope I never have to dismantle it again!) and it was...complicated, however I managed to get on with the job, the new oil radiator with the new hoses were also installed (thanks Joe ).
Now I just have to rack my brain and regain my composure for the installation of the downpipe.
I have an embarrassing question to say the least... can you remove the oil filter without draining it first? having the front of the car raised about 40cm from the ground, it is clear that the filter oil will go to the ground but what about the rest? the majority is now deposited in the cup.
Yes, you can unscrew the filter first. You will just get oil around the aluminium parts leaking to the ground.
I’ve the cup wrench type tool makes removing the filter easier. When fitting the new filter make sure it’s really tight as they work loose over a short period of time.
Yes, I also got a suitcase with about 24 different socket wrenches for the oil filter, I will go back to the original short filter, because I need more space for the downpipe now, that's why I asked if only the filter can be removed, I don't want to change the oil, at only 3000km
Greetings. I thought I wouldn't open any more threads because in the end it's all connected in this, I wanted to ask if you have any advice/ideas, I would like to replace this silicone tube in the photo with something heat resistant like aluminum etc. I would like to do this because having the SPA collectors I will no longer have a heat shield and all the heat will go there. Thank you.
Greetings. Are there any fittings that fit these ends? wow I didn't know, I was thinking of putting an aluminum tube connecting the ends with short pieces of silicone tube but I will always have soft parts so to speak. would you have any links I have photos regarding these fittings?
I’d guess a hydraulic male and female fitting around an inch would be the kind of thing I’d look at.
The spigot that comes out of the existing aluminium water rail I’m sure is threaded, so presume you could adapt that point to then make your male/female connection. The other end would still connect via the rubber hose so nice and easy
I’d say as you’ve got to take it off for the manifold job, you could see if it releases
Worse case a fabrication place could cut part of the end off and adapt it like I suggested. I don’t think it’s that technical, more to find the right place to make the pipe for you
I apologize, I wanted to correct my writing mistake in the upper message, the SPA manifold has an angle of 90 degrees and not 45 as I wrote by mistake.
Update, the 70mm downpipe has been modified, shortened and the 5 bolt flange wig welded, as well as a v-clamp and also the aem lambda probe mount lower down. The exhaust is now fully installed.
The work that still needs to be done has become little and almost everything is normal without too many changes.
thanks, it will be even more fantastic if everything works without a hitch at the end of the work, I must admit that it is a somewhat heavy modification, not for the increase in horsepower but for the distortion of the parts in the engine compartment, especially with the car only on jack stands and in a small garage.
Hello. I went ahead with the work on the coupe, now I'm struggling with the installation of the Aem instrument, as previously said I bought a 30A relay to take the power directly from the battery, I noticed on the Aem diagram that they recommend adding a 5A fuse on the 12v+ line, I wanted to ask if this makes sense? 5A seems too few to me or is it correct? thanks
Greetings, the tool to create the edge in the intercooler pipes has arrived, now also this pipe that goes from the turbo to the intercooler is in its place.
![[Linked Image]](http://www.fiatcoupeclub.org/fiatcoupenet/pics/sig_book_v1.gif)
maybe not... with coupes??
